HOUSE PLANS

WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
HYPERSENSITIVITY.
IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT KIND OF A
CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE FOUNDATION
ETC?

IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS THEIR
ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
CONDITION?

IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE
iRENE

Where do you live? I know a few people in different areas of the US.

Christy Sloan

We moved into a different house last year and it has worked fine. The key
things that helped us were:
 
- House is detached, no neighbours through adjoining walls/floors (easier in
US than UK, or rural rather than town)
- No masts etc nearby or in a direct line (especially shining through
windows - if this is unavoidable, use metallic net curtains)
- Check where the main power wires run in the walls and avoid sitting near
them; also beware the short range electric/magnetic fields from some light
switches, dimmers, wall thermostats, gas boilers etc
- The biggest single benefit for us; having a new fuse box with separately
wired circuits. Now we can turn off the power in all of the house at night
with a flick of a switch. Alternatively we can turn off most of it but
leave an outside storeroom on power to run a fridge/freezer.
 
There are things like black metallic shielding paint for walls available,
but we have been able to manage without this. Having the power off at night
has given Sue the sleep she needed to strengthen her body to cope.
 
As usual, it depends on what things particularly affect you and in what way.
 
Ian

_____  

From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
iedbunnie
Sent: 03 January 2008 19:57
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS



WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
HYPERSENSITIVITY.
IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT KIND OF A
CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE FOUNDATION
ETC?

IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS THEIR
ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
CONDITION?

IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE
iRENE



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

from what I've read, the first thing is to try to find a site with no
ground currents. A very sensitive AC gaussmeter can help.

Putting all the wiring in smooth metal conduit seems like a good idea.
You get some shielding and can also upgrade the wires, twist the wires, etc.
LessEMF sells special wires.

I would try to have the electric meter installed in a separate building
(like a garage) ideally with a separate foundation, and grounded to
the rebar in that foundation, and done in such away that it's accessible
in case you want to ground it differently in the future. The rebar
should all be connected metal to metal. In the main house
I'd also want access to the rebar in the foundation (ie a stub coming out
where it's accessible).

Probably want to have some pvc pipe to isolate the plumbing from the
water supply.

Make sure the electrician understands the evils of shared neutrals and
how any loop will make a magnetic field.

Try to get appliances without computers etc. There's a refridgerator
maker in Europe called Conserve that can be gotten in the US, and
I hear is as good as it gets for low EMFs.

I would have all living areas on the ground floor, so it's easier to ground
electronics to a true ground. If the electrician knows about it, there's
such
a thing as outlets with dedicated grounds...this may only really help if
that
ground is not bonded, which probably would violate code.

Try to think out the floor plan in terms of wiring, so that the electricity
to the kitchen,
laundry and furnace does not go
past the bedroom or living area.

There is a guide on the internet. You might also want to learn about what
people with chemical sensitivity do...

Bill


On Jan 3, 2008 5:17 PM, Ian Kemp <[hidden email]> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> You might also want to learn about what
> people with chemical sensitivity do...

Yes, if you are building a new house or remodeling,
you may also need to worry about things which may
offgas (refinished hardwood floors, carpet, paint,
etc.)

Marc

This is what worked for me. My house is all metal. It is a mobile home with aluminum siding and a double roof. At first this is a very bad choice for a home because the windows are like portals that allow the high frequencies to come into the home and bounce around inside the home and make it like a microwave oven inside. It will make you sick. However, if you want tolive inside a faraday cage then such a house can be very good for that purpose. It requires closing up all the windows. This can be done without people knowing what you have done. If you look at my windows you see blinds.But right behind the blinds are metal sheets. For the doors I have metalstorm doors with steel mesh pet screens on top of wire screen. The hole are different sizes to block different wavelengths. To make a proper faraday cage requires that you have a box within a box. Each box has to be separately grounded. The aluminum siding is the outer box. I have akso many layers of velostat on the inside of my home which is separately grounded and forms the inside box. This is the proper way to build a faraday cage. This has worked very well for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: iedbunnie
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS


WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
HYPERSENSITIVITY.
IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT KIND OF A
CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE FOUNDATION
ETC?

IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS THEIR
ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
CONDITION?

IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE
iRENE



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That's pretty interesting. Do the windows let light in?

Do you have a meter or detector you can measure your field level with?

I suspect the metal siding is blocking nearly all the microwaves, and
the velostat is primarily damping lower frequency resonances of the home.

About how many layers of Velostat are you talking about? Can you say
more about how you felt before and after the Velostat?

Bill

On Jan 3, 2008 9:13 PM, <[hidden email]> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was looking at a website about overcoming electrical sensitivity http://www.electrical-sensitivity.info/HealingAids2.html and I found a link which took me to another link that was called healthy home plans. Here is the link.
http://www.healthyhomeplans.com/

I only just looked over it I don't know if it will help. Here is another website I found about some EMF consultants.

http://www.emfservices.com/index.htm
Hope this helps.

[hidden email] wrote:
This is what worked for me. My house is all metal. It is a mobile home with aluminum siding and a double roof. At first this is a very bad choice for a home because the windows are like portals that allow the high frequencies to come into the home and bounce around inside the home and make it like a microwave oven inside. It will make you sick. However, if you want to live inside a faraday cage then such a house can be very good for that purpose. It requires closing up all the windows. This can be done without people knowing what you have done. If you look at my windows you see blinds. But right behind the blinds are metal sheets. For the doors I have metal storm doors with steel mesh pet screens on top of wire screen. The hole are different sizes to block different wavelengths. To make a proper faraday cage requires that you have a box within a box. Each box has to be separately grounded. The aluminum siding is the outer box. I have akso many layers of velostat
on the inside of my home which is separately grounded and forms the inside box. This is the proper way to build a faraday cage. This has worked very well for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: iedbunnie
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS

WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
HYPERSENSITIVITY.
IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT KIND OF A
CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE FOUNDATION
ETC?

IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS THEIR
ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
CONDITION?

IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE
iRENE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Bill Bruno <[hidden email]>
Date: Jan 4, 2008 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: HOUSE PLANS
To: iedbunnie <[hidden email]>


I was talking about this one, and also another one (see below)

Hello all,
I am excited to announce that our Safer Construction Tips for the
Environmentally Sensitive brochure is now online. This is a FREE
38-page, read-only, full color brochure based on the results of a
survey of 18 people who completed a safer construction project for
someone with moderate-severe chemical and/or electrical sensitivities
themselves. I began this project as a coordinator for MCS-Global in
2005. Melinda Honn and Greg Conrad were instrumental in creating this
brochure, as well. There is a whole section on lowering EMFs.

http://planetthrive.com/cgi-bin/members/pub9990237067534.cgi

Would love your feedback!
Julie

Julie Genser
founder and director
Planet Thrive, Inc.
www.PlanetThrive.com <http://www.planetthrive.com/>

Also read part 4 of
http://www.ctaz.com/~bhima/emf.htm <http://www.ctaz.com/%7Ebhima/emf.htm>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yes, I can tell you more. No the windows are completely blocked. I do have survelliance cameras that let me see outside if I want to look outside. I do not have meters other than my trifield meter. I am very sensitive and I do things based upon how what I do makes me feel. This is what I have done now for a very long time. For example, I learned that just grounding the corners of the house was not enough. I work on areas of the house where I don't feel that good in. In one such place I would ground one sheet of metal siding and continue to ground each sheet running the wire from one sheet to the next. Yet when I rounded the corner and grounded the next sheet and then came back inside to see how I felt I noticed that now I felt worse instead of better. So I stopped with the previous sheet and just left it the way that it was because it was having such a good effect on me. It is all totally being done by feelings and with no meters or instruments. I don't know what the aluminum siding is blocking. But I know that the velostat is supposed to block microwaves. Again, I like velostat because of the way that it makes me feel. I don't know what it does or how it does what it does but when you touch it it really makes you feel good and when I put layers of it on the wall it has a good effect. Some say that it can take as much as 11 or 12 layers to be very effective. I put the velostat in layers mixed in with layers of metalic cloth that I buy from walmart and with sheets of wire that have 1/4 by 1/4 openings. It is all grounded to grounding rods. I don't know why it is but it seems to work best if you run the wire from the grounding rod to a water pipe and then to the wall. I usually connect it to the metallic cloth. I have one room in the house that makes me feel really really good. In that room the house copper wires have been disconnected at the mains, including the neutral wire. From the ground rods I use zinc connectors and use silver nickel speaker wire instead of copper wire and attach the wire to the wall using zinc plated screws and washers. I purposely use zinc instead of copper because copper is feminine and zinc is masculine. I am so senstitive that I can tell a difference. This room has a great effect on me. It is hard to explain just how it is. But copper is much like mercury. I have read that copper toxicity symptoms are exactly the same as mercury toxicity symptoms. Zinc has a really good effect on me and copper does not. I have put a lot of thought into this house as you can tell.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bruno
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS


That's pretty interesting. Do the windows let light in?

Do you have a meter or detector you can measure your field level with?

I suspect the metal siding is blocking nearly all the microwaves, and
the velostat is primarily damping lower frequency resonances of the home.

About how many layers of Velostat are you talking about? Can you say
more about how you felt before and after the Velostat?

Bill

On Jan 3, 2008 9:13 PM, <[hidden email]> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This is fascinating.

Disconnecting the wiring from the mains makes perfect sense. There
is always dirty power on the neutral (assuming a wye power grid; on delta
grids
maybe not). I assume your AC ground wires are also disconnected from the
power company neutral?

Curious what kind of lighting you use, and what kind of computer.

I'm not sure I follow the details of your grounding. Maybe by not going
around the corner you're minimizing the extent to which external ground
currents come in and go out through your ground system? One solution
to that is to ground everything at one point (one rod, or one rod with
others
connected to it).

The metal cloth, if it's what I'm thinking of (hardware cloth, like you
could
make a fence out of) should be quite effective at blocking RF and microwaves
up to at least about 5 GHz. I'd expect the microwaves to go through the
velostat
but it will help block low frequency electric fields and as I said may
prevent
resonances. Of course enough layers could block microwaves, maybe someone
could calculate it, but I suspect 10 layers is not even close.

Bill

On Jan 4, 2008 6:41 PM, <[hidden email]> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I could feel a huge difference when I disconnected the neutral wire. I had had the power off to that room for quite a long time. The ground wire is also disconnected from that room. The grounding of the outer aluminum siding is completely different than the grounding of the electrical system of the house. I used a ground rod and ran the ground wire along the bottom edge of the house connecting it to each individual sheet of siding. I'm trying this is areas of the house where it still doesn't feel right. I use different ground rods to ground the velostat on the inside of the house. I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many here in the group do. It is all hit and miss guess work trying out different ideas. When I find something that works I continue to do it and when it doesn't work I stop doing it and if possible try to understand why. I have found that ground rods have a better feel than grounding things to the ground in the electrical outlet. It seems that ground current flows up the ground rod wiring and I think the same is true that it flows out of the ground in the electrical box. I have slept on grounded conductive fabric grounded to both the electrical box and to ground rods and find the ground rods are very comforting and the electrical box ground makes me feel like I'm being electricuted. So I use ground rods exclusively. I have two computers. One is grounded by placing it on top of conductive fabric that is grounded to a ground rod and the other is inside a metal box that is grounded. Both are up off the floor so as not to create ground currents. They are placed far away from my desk using extension cords. The monitor is a flat screen that appears to have no transformer in the monitor itself but only on the end of the electrical cord which is place far away from the computer in a place where all my other electrical equipment is at. Again this is off the floor in a box that is grounded. The monitor has two screens. One is a grounded screen from Less EMF and the other is just a glare screen. The glare screen is between the grounded screen and the monitor. I just go by feelings. I can't explain why it works better but I feel better with the ungrounded glare screen in there. I just go by feelings and can't explain that. Computers were a real killer before but with this set up it doesn't bother me at all. I use incandescent light bulbs. I'm no expert on light bulbs. They don't seem to bother me. Sounds like you know more about the velostat than I do. But what you are saying does make sense. Before I blocked the windows from the outside they were only covered on the inside with many layers of velostat. I thought this was blocking the microwaves. But after I blocked the windows from the outside as well with metal sheeting I saw a huge difference. The velostat has creates a good feel to the room but apparently it was ineffective as a blocking agent. You are most likely correct.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bruno
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS


This is fascinating.

Disconnecting the wiring from the mains makes perfect sense. There
is always dirty power on the neutral (assuming a wye power grid; on delta
grids
maybe not). I assume your AC ground wires are also disconnected from the
power company neutral?

Curious what kind of lighting you use, and what kind of computer.

I'm not sure I follow the details of your grounding. Maybe by not going
around the corner you're minimizing the extent to which external ground
currents come in and go out through your ground system? One solution
to that is to ground everything at one point (one rod, or one rod with
others
connected to it).

The metal cloth, if it's what I'm thinking of (hardware cloth, like you
could
make a fence out of) should be quite effective at blocking RF and microwaves
up to at least about 5 GHz. I'd expect the microwaves to go through the
velostat
but it will help block low frequency electric fields and as I said may
prevent
resonances. Of course enough layers could block microwaves, maybe someone
could calculate it, but I suspect 10 layers is not even close.

Bill

On Jan 4, 2008 6:41 PM, <[hidden email]> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
> I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many
> here in the group do.


Actually this shielding stuff is very difficult to get right even for
experts, and I
don't think anyone posting here is an expert at it--I'm certainly not. So
your
trial and error experience is very valuable.

The bit about the glare screen is also very interesting. I think possibly
the glare
screen acts mainly as a spacer, so the fields aren't too strong at the
shield.
It's also conceivable it helps by allowing the screen to be used at maximum
brightness?
I don't know how they work but for sure a lot of dimmer switches are less
polluting
when on maximum current.

What about keyboard and mouse? Also, I think a lot of people would like to
know
how big your monitor is or even the exact make and model.

Bill

On Jan 5, 2008 9:29 AM, <[hidden email]> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The keyboard causes me no problem. I use a regular mouse with the cord. If there is something out there better than this I don't know what it is but would be interested in knowing about it. I do get a bit of a current from the mouse. It's a bit like a cell phone. I can use it very briefly but I can't hold it in my hand for long periods of time. The monitor has a brand name of KENMARK on it. It measures 17 wide including side speakers and is 12 inches tall. It can't be used to watch t.v. with but causes me no problems as a computer monitor. The owners manual says LCD TV 15KN10E5 The address for the manufacturer is Kenmark USA, 8004 S. Madison, Burr Ridge, IL 60527. The telephone number is 1-866-346-7176.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bruno
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS


>
> I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many
> here in the group do.

Actually this shielding stuff is very difficult to get right even for
experts, and I
don't think anyone posting here is an expert at it--I'm certainly not. So
your
trial and error experience is very valuable.

The bit about the glare screen is also very interesting. I think possibly
the glare
screen acts mainly as a spacer, so the fields aren't too strong at the
shield.
It's also conceivable it helps by allowing the screen to be used at maximum
brightness?
I don't know how they work but for sure a lot of dimmer switches are less
polluting
when on maximum current.

What about keyboard and mouse? Also, I think a lot of people would like to
know
how big your monitor is or even the exact make and model.

Bill

On Jan 5, 2008 9:29 AM, <[hidden email]> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't quite understand.
Did you disconnect the neutral (common) lead between the electrical
box and the power pole?

Thanx

__________________________________________________________________


--- In [hidden email], <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> I could feel a huge difference when I disconnected the neutral
wire. I had had the power off to that room for quite a long time.  
The ground wire is also disconnected from that room. The grounding
of the outer aluminum siding is completely different than the
grounding of the electrical system of the house. I used a ground rod
and ran the ground wire along the bottom edge of the house connecting
it to each individual sheet of siding. I'm trying this is areas of
the house where it still doesn't feel right. I use different ground
rods to ground the velostat on the inside of the house. I don't have
a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many here in
the group do. It is all hit and miss guess work trying out different
ideas. When I find something that works I continue to do it and when
it doesn't work I stop doing it and if possible try to understand
why. I have found that ground rods have a better feel than grounding
things to the ground in the electrical outlet. It seems that ground
current flows up the ground rod wiring and I think the same is true
that it flows out of the ground in the electrical box. I have slept
on grounded conductive fabric grounded to both the electrical box and
to ground rods and find the ground rods are very comforting and the
electrical box ground makes me feel like I'm being electricuted. So
I use ground rods exclusively. I have two computers. One is
grounded by placing it on top of conductive fabric that is grounded
to a ground rod and the other is inside a metal box that is
grounded. Both are up off the floor so as not to create ground
currents. They are placed far away from my desk using extension
cords. The monitor is a flat screen that appears to have no
transformer in the monitor itself but only on the end of the
electrical cord which is place far away from the computer in a place
where all my other electrical equipment is at. Again this is off the
floor in a box that is grounded. The monitor has two screens. One
is a grounded screen from Less EMF and the other is just a glare
screen. The glare screen is between the grounded screen and the
monitor. I just go by feelings. I can't explain why it works better
but I feel better with the ungrounded glare screen in there. I just
go by feelings and can't explain that. Computers were a real killer
before but with this set up it doesn't bother me at all. I use
incandescent light bulbs. I'm no expert on light bulbs. They don't
seem to bother me. Sounds like you know more about the velostat than
I do. But what you are saying does make sense. Before I blocked the
windows from the outside they were only covered on the inside with
many layers of velostat. I thought this was blocking the
microwaves. But after I blocked the windows from the outside as well
with metal sheeting I saw a huge difference. The velostat has
creates a good feel to the room but apparently it was ineffective as
a blocking agent. You are most likely correct. on delta
> grids
> maybe not). I assume your AC ground wires are also disconnected
from the
> power company neutral?
>
> Curious what kind of lighting you use, and what kind of computer.
>
> I'm not sure I follow the details of your grounding. Maybe by not
going
> around the corner you're minimizing the extent to which external
ground
> currents come in and go out through your ground system? One
solution
> to that is to ground everything at one point (one rod, or one rod
with
> others
> connected to it).
>
> The metal cloth, if it's what I'm thinking of (hardware cloth,
like you
> could
> make a fence out of) should be quite effective at blocking RF and
microwaves
> up to at least about 5 GHz. I'd expect the microwaves to go
through the
> velostat
> but it will help block low frequency electric fields and as I
said may
> prevent
> resonances. Of course enough layers could block microwaves, maybe
someone
> could calculate it, but I suspect 10 layers is not even close.
>
> Bill
>
> On Jan 4, 2008 6:41 PM, <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> > Yes, I can tell you more. No the windows are completely
blocked. I do
> > have survelliance cameras that let me see outside if I want to
look outside.
> > I do not have meters other than my trifield meter. I am very
sensitive and I
> > do things based upon how what I do makes me feel. This is what
I have done
> > now for a very long time. For example, I learned that just
grounding the
> > corners of the house was not enough. I work on areas of the
house where I
> > don't feel that good in. In one such place I would ground one
sheet of metal
> > siding and continue to ground each sheet running the wire from
one sheet to
> > the next. Yet when I rounded the corner and grounded the next
sheet and then
> > came back inside to see how I felt I noticed that now I felt
worse instead
> > of better. So I stopped with the previous sheet and just left
it the way
> > that it was because it was having such a good effect on me. It
is all
> > totally being done by feelings and with no meters or
instruments. I don't
> > know what the aluminum siding is blocking. But I know that the
velostat is
> > supposed to block microwaves. Again, I like velostat because of
the way that
> > it makes me feel. I don't know what it does or how it does what
it does but
> > when you touch it it really makes you feel good and when I put
layers of it
> > on the wall it has a good effect. Some say that it can take as
much as 11 or
> > 12 layers to be very effective. I put the velostat in layers
mixed in with
> > layers of metalic cloth that I buy from walmart and with sheets
of wire that
> > have 1/4 by 1/4 openings. It is all grounded to grounding rods.
I don't know
> > why it is but it seems to work best if you run the wire from
the grounding
> > rod to a water pipe and then to the wall. I usually connect it
to the
> > metallic cloth. I have one room in the house that makes me feel
really
> > really good. In that room the house copper wires have been
disconnected at
> > the mains, including the neutral wire. From the ground rods I
use zinc
> > connectors and use silver nickel speaker wire instead of copper
wire and
> > attach the wire to the wall using zinc plated screws and
washers. I
> > purposely use zinc instead of copper because copper is feminine
and zinc is
> > masculine. I am so senstitive that I can tell a difference.
This room has a
> > great effect on me. It is hard to explain just how it is. But
copper is much
> > like mercury. I have read that copper toxicity symptoms are
exactly the same
> > as mercury toxicity symptoms. Zinc has a really good effect on
me and copper
> > does not. I have put a lot of thought into this house as you
can tell. level with?
> >
> > I suspect the metal siding is blocking nearly all the
microwaves, and
> > the velostat is primarily damping lower frequency resonances of
the home.
> >
> > About how many layers of Velostat are you talking about? Can
you say
> > more about how you felt before and after the Velostat?
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > On Jan 3, 2008 9:13 PM, <scollier@... <scollier%40vaughns.com>>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > This is what worked for me. My house is all metal. It is a
mobile home
> > > with aluminum siding and a double roof. At first this is a
very bad
> > choice
> > > for a home because the windows are like portals that allow
the high
> > > frequencies to come into the home and bounce around inside
the home and
> > make
> > > it like a microwave oven inside. It will make you sick.
However, if you
> > want
> > > to live inside a faraday cage then such a house can be very
good for
> > that
> > > purpose. It requires closing up all the windows. This can be
done
> > without
> > > people knowing what you have done. If you look at my windows
you see
> > blinds.
> > > But right behind the blinds are metal sheets. For the doors I
have metal
> > > storm doors with steel mesh pet screens on top of wire
screen. The hole
> > are
> > > different sizes to block different wavelengths. To make a
proper faraday
> > > cage requires that you have a box within a box. Each box has
to be
> > > separately grounded. The aluminum siding is the outer box. I
have akso
> > many
> > > layers of velostat on the inside of my home which is
separately grounded
> > and
> > > forms the inside box. This is the proper way to build a
faraday cage.
> > This
> > > has worked very well for me.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: iedbunnie
> > > To: [hidden email]
<eSens%40yahoogroups.com><eSens%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 1:56 PM
> > > Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS
> > >
> > > WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
> > > HYPERSENSITIVITY.
> > > IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT
KIND OF A
> > > CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE
FOUNDATION
> > > ETC?
> > >
> > > IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS
THEIR
> > > ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
> > > CONDITION?
> > >
> > > IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN
ADVANCE

Sorry for being unclear. Iwas speaking only of the line that goes to one specific room in my house. I disconnected those wires at the box. They are just dead outlets.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim O.
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 3:59 AM
Subject: [eSens] Re: HOUSE PLANS


I don't quite understand.
Did you disconnect the neutral (common) lead between the electrical
box and the power pole?

Thanx

__________________________________________________________

--- In [hidden email], <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> I could feel a huge difference when I disconnected the neutral
wire. I had had the power off to that room for quite a long time.
The ground wire is also disconnected from that room. The grounding
of the outer aluminum siding is completely different than the
grounding of the electrical system of the house. I used a ground rod
and ran the ground wire along the bottom edge of the house connecting
it to each individual sheet of siding. I'm trying this is areas of
the house where it still doesn't feel right. I use different ground
rods to ground the velostat on the inside of the house. I don't have
a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many here in
the group do. It is all hit and miss guess work trying out different
ideas. When I find something that works I continue to do it and when
it doesn't work I stop doing it and if possible try to understand
why. I have found that ground rods have a better feel than grounding
things to the ground in the electrical outlet. It seems that ground
current flows up the ground rod wiring and I think the same is true
that it flows out of the ground in the electrical box. I have slept
on grounded conductive fabric grounded to both the electrical box and
to ground rods and find the ground rods are very comforting and the
electrical box ground makes me feel like I'm being electricuted. So
I use ground rods exclusively. I have two computers. One is
grounded by placing it on top of conductive fabric that is grounded
to a ground rod and the other is inside a metal box that is
grounded. Both are up off the floor so as not to create ground
currents. They are placed far away from my desk using extension
cords. The monitor is a flat screen that appears to have no
transformer in the monitor itself but only on the end of the
electrical cord which is place far away from the computer in a place
where all my other electrical equipment is at. Again this is off the
floor in a box that is grounded. The monitor has two screens. One
is a grounded screen from Less EMF and the other is just a glare
screen. The glare screen is between the grounded screen and the
monitor. I just go by feelings. I can't explain why it works better
but I feel better with the ungrounded glare screen in there. I just
go by feelings and can't explain that. Computers were a real killer
before but with this set up it doesn't bother me at all. I use
incandescent light bulbs. I'm no expert on light bulbs. They don't
seem to bother me. Sounds like you know more about the velostat than
I do. But what you are saying does make sense. Before I blocked the
windows from the outside they were only covered on the inside with
many layers of velostat. I thought this was blocking the
microwaves. But after I blocked the windows from the outside as well
with metal sheeting I saw a huge difference. The velostat has
creates a good feel to the room but apparently it was ineffective as
a blocking agent. You are most likely correct. on delta
> grids
> maybe not). I assume your AC ground wires are also disconnected
from the
> power company neutral?
>
> Curious what kind of lighting you use, and what kind of computer.
>
> I'm not sure I follow the details of your grounding. Maybe by not
going
> around the corner you're minimizing the extent to which external
ground
> currents come in and go out through your ground system? One
solution
> to that is to ground everything at one point (one rod, or one rod
with
> others
> connected to it).
>
> The metal cloth, if it's what I'm thinking of (hardware cloth,
like you
> could
> make a fence out of) should be quite effective at blocking RF and
microwaves
> up to at least about 5 GHz. I'd expect the microwaves to go
through the
> velostat
> but it will help block low frequency electric fields and as I
said may
> prevent
> resonances. Of course enough layers could block microwaves, maybe
someone
> could calculate it, but I suspect 10 layers is not even close.
>
> Bill
>
> On Jan 4, 2008 6:41 PM, <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> > Yes, I can tell you more. No the windows are completely
blocked. I do
> > have survelliance cameras that let me see outside if I want to
look outside.
> > I do not have meters other than my trifield meter. I am very
sensitive and I
> > do things based upon how what I do makes me feel. This is what
I have done
> > now for a very long time. For example, I learned that just
grounding the
> > corners of the house was not enough. I work on areas of the
house where I
> > don't feel that good in. In one such place I would ground one
sheet of metal
> > siding and continue to ground each sheet running the wire from
one sheet to
> > the next. Yet when I rounded the corner and grounded the next
sheet and then
> > came back inside to see how I felt I noticed that now I felt
worse instead
> > of better. So I stopped with the previous sheet and just left
it the way
> > that it was because it was having such a good effect on me. It
is all
> > totally being done by feelings and with no meters or
instruments. I don't
> > know what the aluminum siding is blocking. But I know that the
velostat is
> > supposed to block microwaves. Again, I like velostat because of
the way that
> > it makes me feel. I don't know what it does or how it does what
it does but
> > when you touch it it really makes you feel good and when I put
layers of it
> > on the wall it has a good effect. Some say that it can take as
much as 11 or
> > 12 layers to be very effective. I put the velostat in layers
mixed in with
> > layers of metalic cloth that I buy from walmart and with sheets
of wire that
> > have 1/4 by 1/4 openings. It is all grounded to grounding rods.
I don't know
> > why it is but it seems to work best if you run the wire from
the grounding
> > rod to a water pipe and then to the wall. I usually connect it
to the
> > metallic cloth. I have one room in the house that makes me feel
really
> > really good. In that room the house copper wires have been
disconnected at
> > the mains, including the neutral wire. From the ground rods I
use zinc
> > connectors and use silver nickel speaker wire instead of copper
wire and
> > attach the wire to the wall using zinc plated screws and
washers. I
> > purposely use zinc instead of copper because copper is feminine
and zinc is
> > masculine. I am so senstitive that I can tell a difference.
This room has a
> > great effect on me. It is hard to explain just how it is. But
copper is much
> > like mercury. I have read that copper toxicity symptoms are
exactly the same
> > as mercury toxicity symptoms. Zinc has a really good effect on
me and copper
> > does not. I have put a lot of thought into this house as you
can tell. level with?
> >
> > I suspect the metal siding is blocking nearly all the
microwaves, and
> > the velostat is primarily damping lower frequency resonances of
the home.
> >
> > About how many layers of Velostat are you talking about? Can
you say
> > more about how you felt before and after the Velostat?
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > On Jan 3, 2008 9:13 PM, <scollier@... <scollier%40vaughns.com>>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > This is what worked for me. My house is all metal. It is a
mobile home
> > > with aluminum siding and a double roof. At first this is a
very bad
> > choice
> > > for a home because the windows are like portals that allow
the high
> > > frequencies to come into the home and bounce around inside
the home and
> > make
> > > it like a microwave oven inside. It will make you sick.
However, if you
> > want
> > > to live inside a faraday cage then such a house can be very
good for
> > that
> > > purpose. It requires closing up all the windows. This can be
done
> > without
> > > people knowing what you have done. If you look at my windows
you see
> > blinds.
> > > But right behind the blinds are metal sheets. For the doors I
have metal
> > > storm doors with steel mesh pet screens on top of wire
screen. The hole
> > are
> > > different sizes to block different wavelengths. To make a
proper faraday
> > > cage requires that you have a box within a box. Each box has
to be
> > > separately grounded. The aluminum siding is the outer box. I
have akso
> > many
> > > layers of velostat on the inside of my home which is
separately grounded
> > and
> > > forms the inside box. This is the proper way to build a
faraday cage.
> > This
> > > has worked very well for me.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: iedbunnie
> > > To: [hidden email]
<eSens%40yahoogroups.com><eSens%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 1:56 PM
> > > Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS
> > >
> > > WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
> > > HYPERSENSITIVITY.
> > > IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT
KIND OF A
> > > CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE
FOUNDATION
> > > ETC?
> > >
> > > IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS
THEIR
> > > ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY
> > > CONDITION?
> > >
> > > IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN
ADVANCE





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dear Irene,
 
Lucky you if you can build your own house. However, there are several things to consider. Here are some…
 
Location
Try to find a place free from mobile phone masts, TV and radio masts, radarequipment and neighbours within 300 meters (DECT-telephone).
Don’t build on top of a hill, instead build at the bottom of the hill (onthe side where you get radio shadow) or in a valley. To measure this, engage someone having a frequency analyser. If you find a place with the radiation around 1 nW/m2 it is a good place. (Still you can use a mobile phone…) (Remember: the maximum value stated by ICNIRP is 10 W/m2 for 3G)
There should also be no power line within say 300 meters.
 
Construction site
When you have found the right place you have to orientate the house according to the Curry lines. The lines must be in the outer walls so a Curry cross lies in the corner of the house. Since the Curry lines are about 4 metresapart the house (and the rooms) should have a modulus of 4 meters. The house thus can be 4 by 8 meters, 8 by 8 meters, 8 by 12 meters and so on.
The Curry lines you detect with a dowsing rod or pointers.
 
Also there shall not be a water line under the house crossing the place where you intend to put your bed.
The water lines you detect with a dowsing rod or pointers.
 
Materials for the house
Build the house from stone or bricks. Only use material, which don’t giveoff chemicals (remember: about 50% of EHS people are also MCS to differentdegrees).
 
Use windows with low emission glass (energy glass) as this will reduce the microwave radiation (attenuation about 20 dB)
 
Electricity
Use shielded cables. Check the quality of the electricity to avoid dirty electricity. Using a Stetzer meter you can detect this. Use filters if the values are above 50 Stetzer units. Don’t use CFLs and fluorescent tubes. Don’t use dimmers.
Concentrate the electrical lines in the house to places where you normally don’t stay. This will take care of magnetic fields.
Use net decoupler so your bedroom is completely free from electric fields during sleep.
 
 
These are a few suggestions for a good start unless you are extremely sensitive. We have practiced much of this in our house and most EHS people visiting us feel quite well and also sleep well.
 
Kind regards and good luck
Torbjorn
 


To: [hidden email]: [hidden email]: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 19:56:42 +0000Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS




WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC HYPERSENSITIVITY.IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT KIND OF A CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE FOUNDATION ETC?IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS THEIR ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH MY CONDITION?IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS IN ADVANCE iRENE






_________________________________________________________________
Står karriären still? Låt någon annan hitta drömjobbet åt dig!
http://msn.jobbguiden.se/jobseeker/resumes/postresumenew/postresumestart.aspx?sc_cmp2=JS_INT_SEMSN_NLPCV

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In [hidden email], "Bill Bruno" <wbruno@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm
sure many
> > here in the group do.

Me too.
However, good shielding is a forest,or other living plants. If one
cannot move to live in a forest, how about growing indoor climbing
plants around all the walls?


William

I would like to have plants in my house also. But then I'd need to have windows.  
----- Original Message -----
From: skrzn
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:48 PM
Subject: [eSens] Re: HOUSE PLANS


--- In [hidden email], "Bill Bruno" <wbruno@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm
sure many
> > here in the group do.

Me too.
However, good shielding is a forest,or other living plants. If one
cannot move to live in a forest, how about growing indoor climbing
plants around all the walls?

William



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In [hidden email], <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> The keyboard causes me no problem. I use a regular mouse with the
cord. If there is something out there better than this I don't know
what it is but would be interested in knowing about it. I do get a
bit of a current from the mouse. It's a bit like a cell phone. I
can use it very briefly but I can't hold it in my hand for long
periods of time. The monitor has a brand name of KENMARK on it. It
measures 17 wide including side speakers and is 12 inches tall. It
can't be used to watch t.v. with but causes me no problems as a
computer monitor. The owners manual says LCD TV 15KN10E5 The
address for the manufacturer is Kenmark USA, 8004 S. Madison, Burr
Ridge, IL 60527. The telephone number is 1-866-346-7176.

Hello !
I suggest to look at this Swedish company ...  

Mr Samuel Andersson, e-mail [hidden email]
telephone +46 910 776 905 or mobile +46 70 395 3954
"www.amak.se" is the home page; unfortunately only in Swedish

Giorgio



> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Bruno
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:38 AM
> Subject: Re: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS
>
>
> >
> > I don't have a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm
sure many
> > here in the group do.
>
> Actually this shielding stuff is very difficult to get right even
for
> experts, and I
> don't think anyone posting here is an expert at it--I'm certainly
not. So
> your
> trial and error experience is very valuable.
>
> The bit about the glare screen is also very interesting. I think
possibly
> the glare
> screen acts mainly as a spacer, so the fields aren't too strong
at the
> shield.
> It's also conceivable it helps by allowing the screen to be used
at maximum
> brightness?
> I don't know how they work but for sure a lot of dimmer switches
are less
> polluting
> when on maximum current.
>
> What about keyboard and mouse? Also, I think a lot of people
would like to
> know
> how big your monitor is or even the exact make and model.
>
> Bill
>
> On Jan 5, 2008 9:29 AM, <scollier@...> wrote:
>
> > I could feel a huge difference when I disconnected the neutral
wire. I
> > had had the power off to that room for quite a long time. The
ground wire is
> > also disconnected from that room. The grounding of the outer
aluminum siding
> > is completely different than the grounding of the electrical
system of the
> > house. I used a ground rod and ran the ground wire along the
bottom edge of
> > the house connecting it to each individual sheet of siding. I'm
trying this
> > is areas of the house where it still doesn't feel right. I use
different
> > ground rods to ground the velostat on the inside of the house.
I don't have
> > a real understanding of what I'm doing the way I'm sure many
here in the
> > group do. It is all hit and miss guess work trying out
different ideas. When
> > I find something that works I continue to do it and when it
doesn't work I
> > stop doing it and if possible try to understand why. I have
found that
> > ground rods have a better feel than grounding things to the
ground in the
> > electrical outlet. It seems that ground current flows up the
ground rod
> > wiring and I think the same is true that it flows out of the
ground in the
> > electrical box. I have slept on grounded conductive fabric
grounded to both
> > the electrical box and to ground rods and find the ground rods
are very
> > comforting and the electrical box ground makes me feel like I'm
being
> > electricuted. So I use ground rods exclusively. I have two
computers. One is
> > grounded by placing it on top of conductive fabric that is
grounded to a
> > ground rod and the other is inside a metal box that is
grounded. Both are up
> > off the floor so as not to create ground currents. They are
placed far away
> > from my desk using extension cords. The monitor is a flat
screen that
> > appears to have no transformer in the monitor itself but only
on the end of
> > the electrical cord which is place far away from the computer
in a place
> > where all my other electrical equipment is at. Again this is
off the floor
> > in a box that is grounded. The monitor has two screens. One is
a grounded
> > screen from Less EMF and the other is just a glare screen. The
glare screen
> > is between the grounded screen and the monitor. I just go by
feelings. I
> > can't explain why it works better but I feel better with the
ungrounded
> > glare screen in there. I just go by feelings and can't explain
that.
> > Computers were a real killer before but with this set up it
doesn't bother
> > me at all. I use incandescent light bulbs. I'm no expert on
light bulbs.
> > They don't seem to bother me. Sounds like you know more about
the velostat
> > than I do. But what you are saying does make sense. Before I
blocked the
> > windows from the outside they were only covered on the inside
with many
> > layers of velostat. I thought this was blocking the microwaves.
But after I
> > blocked the windows from the outside as well with metal
sheeting I saw a
> > huge difference. The velostat has creates a good feel to the
room but
> > apparently it was ineffective as a blocking agent. You are most
likely There
> > is always dirty power on the neutral (assuming a wye power
grid; on delta
> > grids
> > maybe not). I assume your AC ground wires are also disconnected
from the
> > power company neutral?
> >
> > Curious what kind of lighting you use, and what kind of
computer.
> >
> > I'm not sure I follow the details of your grounding. Maybe by
not going
> > around the corner you're minimizing the extent to which
external ground
> > currents come in and go out through your ground system? One
solution
> > to that is to ground everything at one point (one rod, or one
rod with
> > others
> > connected to it).
> >
> > The metal cloth, if it's what I'm thinking of (hardware cloth,
like you
> > could
> > make a fence out of) should be quite effective at blocking RF
and
> > microwaves
> > up to at least about 5 GHz. I'd expect the microwaves to go
through the
> > velostat
> > but it will help block low frequency electric fields and as I
said may
> > prevent
> > resonances. Of course enough layers could block microwaves,
maybe someone
> > could calculate it, but I suspect 10 layers is not even close.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > On Jan 4, 2008 6:41 PM, <scollier@... <scollier%40vaughns.com>>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Yes, I can tell you more. No the windows are completely
blocked. I do
> > > have survelliance cameras that let me see outside if I want
to look
> > outside.
> > > I do not have meters other than my trifield meter. I am very
sensitive
> > and I
> > > do things based upon how what I do makes me feel. This is
what I have
> > done
> > > now for a very long time. For example, I learned that just
grounding the
> > > corners of the house was not enough. I work on areas of the
house where
> > I
> > > don't feel that good in. In one such place I would ground one
sheet of
> > metal
> > > siding and continue to ground each sheet running the wire
from one sheet
> > to
> > > the next. Yet when I rounded the corner and grounded the next
sheet and
> > then
> > > came back inside to see how I felt I noticed that now I felt
worse
> > instead
> > > of better. So I stopped with the previous sheet and just left
it the way
> > > that it was because it was having such a good effect on me.
It is all
> > > totally being done by feelings and with no meters or
instruments. I
> > don't
> > > know what the aluminum siding is blocking. But I know that
the velostat
> > is
> > > supposed to block microwaves. Again, I like velostat because
of the way
> > that
> > > it makes me feel. I don't know what it does or how it does
what it does
> > but
> > > when you touch it it really makes you feel good and when I
put layers of
> > it
> > > on the wall it has a good effect. Some say that it can take
as much as
> > 11 or
> > > 12 layers to be very effective. I put the velostat in layers
mixed in
> > with
> > > layers of metalic cloth that I buy from walmart and with
sheets of wire
> > that
> > > have 1/4 by 1/4 openings. It is all grounded to grounding
rods. I don't
> > know
> > > why it is but it seems to work best if you run the wire from
the
> > grounding
> > > rod to a water pipe and then to the wall. I usually connect
it to the
> > > metallic cloth. I have one room in the house that makes me
feel really
> > > really good. In that room the house copper wires have been
disconnected
> > at
> > > the mains, including the neutral wire. From the ground rods I
use zinc
> > > connectors and use silver nickel speaker wire instead of
copper wire and
> > > attach the wire to the wall using zinc plated screws and
washers. I
> > > purposely use zinc instead of copper because copper is
feminine and zinc
> > is
> > > masculine. I am so senstitive that I can tell a difference.
This room
> > has a
> > > great effect on me. It is hard to explain just how it is. But
copper is
> > much
> > > like mercury. I have read that copper toxicity symptoms are
exactly the
> > same
> > > as mercury toxicity symptoms. Zinc has a really good effect
on me and
> > copper
> > > does not. I have put a lot of thought into this house as you
can tell.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Bill Bruno
> > > To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com><eSens%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 12:06 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS
> > >
> > > That's pretty interesting. Do the windows let light in?
> > >
> > > Do you have a meter or detector you can measure your field
level with?
> > >
> > > I suspect the metal siding is blocking nearly all the
microwaves, and
> > > the velostat is primarily damping lower frequency resonances
of the
> > home.
> > >
> > > About how many layers of Velostat are you talking about? Can
you say
> > > more about how you felt before and after the Velostat?
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > On Jan 3, 2008 9:13 PM, <scollier@... <scollier%
40vaughns.com><scollier%40vaughns.com>>
> >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > This is what worked for me. My house is all metal. It is a
mobile home
> > > > with aluminum siding and a double roof. At first this is a
very bad
> > > choice
> > > > for a home because the windows are like portals that allow
the high
> > > > frequencies to come into the home and bounce around inside
the home
> > and
> > > make
> > > > it like a microwave oven inside. It will make you sick.
However, if
> > you
> > > want
> > > > to live inside a faraday cage then such a house can be very
good for
> > > that
> > > > purpose. It requires closing up all the windows. This can
be done
> > > without
> > > > people knowing what you have done. If you look at my
windows you see
> > > blinds.
> > > > But right behind the blinds are metal sheets. For the doors
I have
> > metal
> > > > storm doors with steel mesh pet screens on top of wire
screen. The
> > hole
> > > are
> > > > different sizes to block different wavelengths. To make a
proper
> > faraday
> > > > cage requires that you have a box within a box. Each box
has to be
> > > > separately grounded. The aluminum siding is the outer box.
I have akso
> > > many
> > > > layers of velostat on the inside of my home which is
separately
> > grounded
> > > and
> > > > forms the inside box. This is the proper way to build a
faraday cage.
> > > This
> > > > has worked very well for me.
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: iedbunnie
> > > > To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com><eSens%
40yahoogroups.com><eSens%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 1:56 PM
> > > > Subject: [eSens] HOUSE PLANS
> > > >
> > > > WE ARE THINKING OF MOVING BECAUSE OF MY ELECTRO MAGNETIC
> > > > HYPERSENSITIVITY.
> > > > IF WE BUILD A HOUSE DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW WE START OR WHAT
KIND OF A
> > > > CONTRACTOR WE LOOK FOR THAT WOULD KNOW WHAT WE NEED IN THE
FOUNDATION
> > > > ETC?
> > > >
> > > > IF WE MOVE INTO A HOUSE THAT WE ARE GOING TO RENNOVATE IS
THEIR
> > > > ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE IN THE WALLS ETC TO HELP ME WITH
MY
> > > > CONDITION?
> > > >
> > > > IS THERE ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET THAT CAN HELP ME? THANKS
IN ADVANCE