Re: Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde.  I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but wasafraid of silica dust from cutting it.  I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile.  I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option.  I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on.  Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank.  I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me.  Any thoughts?



----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo


Hi, Loni,
 
Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park.  I hope the block building will work for you.
 
If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.)  Just a thought.  Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas. 
 
I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies.  Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise.  Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond.  But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products.  Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding.  (Emil, am I correct in this?)  Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know.  I think also, that adding window filmto HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.) 
 
Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider.  Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 


     

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank,
> removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot,
> but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it.

Yes, we recently redid the siding on our house, and I was worried about
the toxicity of Hardiplank -- they say that if the stuff ever catches
on fire, the whole area becomes a toxic mess. So I just avoided the
stuff. However, I have no idea of how better this is for shielding
than just plain wood (which is what we ended up using).

Also, would shielding the walls prevent indoor EMF from escaping,
causing it to "bounce back" into the house? If your primary
problem is indoor the house, this could make things worse...

Marc

Hi, Angela,
 
Interesting!  Thanks for the info; I did not know this.  I was told it was a good emf product by a mold biologist I know who tries to keep currentwith the emf problem (because she knows a couple of people like me who have problems with it and she just finds it interesting.)  Likely she didn'tknow specifics about the product either.
 
I just talked to my building biologist Saturday about the area I was thinking of using the Hardie plank and he thought I'd be better off to use brick or cement block with wood siding over it.  He told me he doubted thatthe Hardie plank blocked better because of the thicknesses involved:  Hardie plank is less than an inch, brick is 4 inches, and cement block (fullycement without void areas) is 6+ inches.  He thought that the thickness would be what mattered most.  So at this point I was not even thinking ofgoing there.  I agree, silica dust is not something you want to fool with. 
 
As to the porcelain tile....  I know where they might know re this.  DrRae's clinic in Dallas has porcelain tile walls.  You might be able to just call them and ask!  Then again, they might tell you to get lost.  lol  This isn't exactly a normal question that they'd get.
 
Here is their contact page:
 
http://www.ehcd.com/contact.html
 
Sorry I was not more help!  (This sounds like a trend!  Didn't I just write that somewhere else?) 
Hope they can help you,
Diane


--- On Mon, 9/22/08, angela england <[hidden email]> wrote:

From: angela england <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: [hidden email]
Date: Monday, September 22, 2008, 2:21 PM






Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde.  I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but wasafraid of silica dust from cutting it.  I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile.  I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option.  I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on.  Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank.  I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me.  Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <evie15422@yahoo. com>
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,
 
Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park.  I hope the block building will work for you.
 
If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.)  Just a thought.  Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas. 
 
I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies.  Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise.  Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond.  But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products.  Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding.  (Emil, am I correct in this?)  Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know.  I think also, that adding window filmto HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.) 
 
Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider.  Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 














     

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In Snowflake, they cover the inside of the walls with heavy duty aluminum
foil, using Elmer's glue or wall paper paste. Overlap the seams, then
ground it using a ground farm. It blocks microwaves, ELF E-fields, and
chemicals. They then cover it with some kind of home made putty.

Bill

On Mon, Sep 22, 2008 at 1:09 PM, Marc Martin <[hidden email]> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ceramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.


----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo


Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't think Hardi plank is a danger in fire. It is basically a cement
board. You might be thinking about pvc siding. MIke
--- In [hidden email], "Marc Martin" <marc@...> wrote:
>
> > Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank,
> > removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home
Depot,
> > but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it.
>
> Yes, we recently redid the siding on our house, and I was worried
about

As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ceramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was thinking of using something to attach the ceramic to the wall and then also using ceramic coated screws to attach the ceramic on top of that. I'm not confident in my ability to place ceramic tiles on the wall without them eventually falling off. The way I'm doing it now I'm just attaching the tiles directly on top of the shielding materials. Would wire mesh be okay instead of hardibacker or wonderboard? That is what is on the wall now.


----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo


As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ce ramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To skolyer:
If you want to keep the wire mesh, you have to use a mortar for walls. Wall float is a name brand that is easily found. It takes a lot more skill and experience with this application. I still would rather screw hardibacker or wonder board on the wall and use thinset mortar to stick the tiles. The tile is not going to fall off the wall after the mortar dries. Use masking tape to hold it temporarily. Drilling holes in porcelain is very difficult since porcelain tile is a lot harder than ceramic or stone tile. I wonder if the mesh is going to attract emf like an antenna?

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
I was thinking of using something to attach the ceramic to the wall and then also using ceramic coated screws to attach the ceramic on top of that. I'm not confident in my ability to place ceramic tiles on the wall without them eventually falling off. The way I'm doing it now I'm just attaching the tiles directly on top of the shielding materials. Would wire mesh be okay instead of hardibacker or wonderboard? That is what is on the wall now.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ce ramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To Mike,
Yes, I have to keep the wire mesh. It is part of my shielding. It is the outer layer that is covering layers of velostat and metalic cloth which is grounded with silver wire and zinc plated screws. I do not use copper as I don't like the feel of it. When it is covered with ceramic insulating it should block any electricity that runs up and down the wall. I want the ceramic next to the electricity without the hardibacker as I know it has a good effect on the ceramic which is crystaline in composition much like a quartz rock which I also use a lot of. Ceramic is very healthy stuff. People who work in ceramic tile manufacturing places in the orient noticed this and made a lamp that uses infra-red light which heats ceramic. People in the plant who worked with ceramic all day had excellent health. They speculated that it was the infra red that they said the ceramic gave off. I think it may be the crystaline structure of the stuff. So I want to power my ceramic tiles, not with infra red, but with ground current that comes up from the ground and runs through my shielding. Current runs through cement and I can probably use a little mortar. I will probably take one tile down and put some mortar on the back and then stick it to the wall and reconnect the ceramic screw just to make sure it stays in place. I'll just see what I think when I try that. Thanks for the advice

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo


To skolyer:
If you want to keep the wire mesh, you have to use a mortar for walls. Wall float is a name brand that is easily found. It takes a lot more skill and experience with this application. I still would rather screw hardibacker or wonder board on the wall and use thinset mortar to stick the tiles. The tile is not going to fall off the wall after the mortar dries. Use masking tape to hold it temporarily. Drilling holes in porcelain is very difficult since porcelain tile is a lot harder than ceramic or stone tile. I wonder if the mesh is going to attract emf like an antenna?

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
I was thinking of using something to attach the ceramic to the wall and then also using ceramic coated screws to attach the ceramic on top of that. I'm not confident in my ability to place ceramic tiles on the wall without them eventually falling off. The way I'm doing it now I'm just attaching the tiles directly on top of the shielding materials. Would wire mesh be okay instead of hardibacker or wonderboard? That is what is on the wall now.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ce ramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To skolyer,
Wow, I did not know all the intricacies of a shield with porcelain. I just thought you could use hardibacker instead of hardi plank somewhere on the wall to block radiation. But it looks like you have a more complicated system (and electrical threat) going on than I would have imagined. You still may only get 5 holes per bit, due to porcelain's hardness, unless you find a diamond bit that will be pretty pricey. The ones I know cut a hole for faucets and cost around $100. But you get 20-30 holes cut per bit. Happy drilling, and wear a dust mask!

Mike

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
To Mike,
Yes, I have to keep the wire mesh. It is part of my shielding. It is the outer layer that is covering layers of velostat and metalic cloth which is grounded with silver wire and zinc plated screws. I do not use copper as I don't like the feel of it. When it is covered with ceramic insulating it should block any electricity that runs up and down the wall. I want the ceramic next to the electricity without the hardibacker as I know it has a good effect on the ceramic which is crystaline in composition much like a quartz rock which I also use a lot of. Ceramic is very healthy stuff. People who work in ceramic tile manufacturing places in the orient noticed this and made a lamp that uses infra-red light which heats ceramic. People in the plant who worked with ceramic all day had excellent health. They speculated that it was the infra red that they said the ceramic gave off. I think it may be the crystaline structure of the stuff. So I want to power my ceramic tiles, not with
infra red, but with ground current that comes up from the ground and runs through my shielding. Current runs through cement and I can probably use a little mortar. I will probably take one tile down and put some mortar on the back and then stick it to the wall and reconnect the ceramic screw just to make sure it stays in place. I'll just see what I think when I try that. Thanks for the advice

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

To skolyer:
If you want to keep the wire mesh, you have to use a mortar for walls. Wall float is a name brand that is easily found. It takes a lot more skill and experience with this application. I still would rather screw hardibacker or wonder board on the wall and use thinset mortar to stick the tiles. The tile is not going to fall off the wall after the mortar dries. Use masking tape to hold it temporarily. Drilling holes in porcelain is very difficult since porcelain tile is a lot harder than ceramic or stone tile. I wonder if the mesh is going to attract emf like an antenna?

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
I was thinking of using something to attach the ceramic to the wall and then also using ceramic coated screws to attach the ceramic on top of that. I'm not confident in my ability to place ceramic tiles on the wall without them eventually falling off. The way I'm doing it now I'm just attaching the tiles directly on top of the shielding materials. Would wire mesh be okay instead of hardibacker or wonderboard? That is what is on the wall now.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ce ramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To Mike,
What I'm doing is all experimental. I'm not saying that this is the way it should be done. Yes, I had quite an electrical problem. The problem was an interaction between aluminum in the aluminum siding and the copper in the copper wiring. I fixed all those problems with a combination of new wiring to dedicated outlets under the home with wiring inside metal pipe and also using double pole switches to be able to shut off old circuits that still remain in use. I did tons of shielding before I realized what was causing the problems. It was shielding me from the copper wiring that was causing the emf that was being reflected by the aluminum siding back into the home. I had all the symptoms of copper toxicity which are identical to mercury toxicity. All the mercury detoxing was having a good effect cause I did also have amalgams which were removed. But still I wasn't getting well till I shielded myself from the copper wiring. Since I got all the shielding up I'm going to leave it up since it did have an effect that was positive. What you are doing may work without all the shielding.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo


To skolyer,
Wow, I did not know all the intricacies of a shield with porcelain. I just thought you could use hardibacker instead of hardi plank somewhere on the wall to block radiation. But it looks like you have a more complicated system (and electrical threat) going on than I would have imagined. You still may only get 5 holes per bit, due to porcelain's hardness, unless you find a diamond bit that will be pretty pricey. The ones I know cut a hole for faucets and cost around $100. But you get 20-30 holes cut per bit. Happy drilling, and wear a dust mask!

Mike

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
To Mike,
Yes, I have to keep the wire mesh. It is part of my shielding. It is the outer layer that is covering layers of velostat and metalic cloth which is grounded with silver wire and zinc plated screws. I do not use copper as I don't like the feel of it. When it is covered with ceramic insulating it should block any electricity that runs up and down the wall. I want the ceramic next to the electricity without the hardibacker as I know it has a good effect on the ceramic which is crystaline in composition much like a quartz rock which I also use a lot of. Ceramic is very healthy stuff. People who work in ceramic tile manufacturing places in the orient noticed this and made a lamp that uses infra-red light which heats ceramic. People in the plant who worked with ceramic all day had excellent health. They speculated that it was the infra red that they said the ceramic gave off. I think it may be the crystaline structure of the stuff. So I want to power my ceramic tiles, not with
infra red, but with ground current that comes up from the ground and runs through my shielding. Current runs through cement and I can probably use a little mortar. I will probably take one tile down and put some mortar on the back and then stick it to the wall and reconnect the ceramic screw just to make sure it stays in place. I'll just see what I think when I try that. Thanks for the advice

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

To skolyer:
If you want to keep the wire mesh, you have to use a mortar for walls. Wall float is a name brand that is easily found. It takes a lot more skill and experience with this application. I still would rather screw hardibacker or wonder board on the wall and use thinset mortar to stick the tiles. The tile is not going to fall off the wall after the mortar dries. Use masking tape to hold it temporarily. Drilling holes in porcelain is very difficult since porcelain tile is a lot harder than ceramic or stone tile. I wonder if the mesh is going to attract emf like an antenna?

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote:
I was thinking of using something to attach the ceramic to the wall and then also using ceramic coated screws to attach the ceramic on top of that. I'm not confident in my ability to place ceramic tiles on the wall without them eventually falling off. The way I'm doing it now I'm just attaching the tiles directly on top of the shielding materials. Would wire mesh be okay instead of hardibacker or wonderboard? That is what is on the wall now.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

As an ex-tile layer, I can tell you a better way to install porcelain tile on the wall. Don't drill. Use ceramic mortar to stick it to the wall. But you best use hardibacker of wonderboard on the wall first. That you can screw in easily. Then, you have a layer of cement board for shielding and porcelain also. I read about porcelain rooms in an ad about a resort, either in Texas or Jamaica that specializes in providing a holiday for ecs and mcs sufferers. My wife has both. If I can just get her in a plane, we will go! MIke

skolyer <[hidden email]> wrote: That is interesting. I have never heard of porcelain rooms before. What have you heard about them? I use ceramic tile myself. But what I've been doing takes a lot of time and effort. My home is like a faraday cage. Outside is metal with the windows covered up with metal. A real faraday cage is a box within a box both being separately grounded. The space between the boxes is suppose to be smaller than what I have but oh well. There is four inches between the boxes as the studs are four inches in width. The inside of the home has multiple layers of velostat that is grounded along with layers metalic cloth and wire cloth. To cover it all up I've been using ceramic tile because it is a good insulator for electrical current and I can touch the wall without being exposed to the current. In other areas I just plan on putting up a thick board of sheet rock. But the way I'm doing the ce ramic is drilling a hole in the middle of it and
using a screw to attach to the stud. But it is very time consuming and I seem to go through a lot of bits trying to drill the holes. Maybe this will give you some ideas. btw, I must use 16 inch tile to do this as the studs are 16 inches apart from each other.

----- Original Message -----
From: angela england
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Regarding Hardi plank, I was re-siding a room with real wood plank, removing fiberboard with formaldehyde. I saw Hardi plank at Home Depot, but was afraid of silica dust from cutting it. I also thought of walling the house with ceramic tile. I heard about porcelain rooms, so I wonder if this is a close option. I could use Hardibacker as a base to put the ceramic tile on. Hardiback comes in sheets and is made by the same co. as Hardi plank. I got a bunch of porcelain tile laying around, so it is do-able for me. Any thoughts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Evie <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:19:22 AM
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo

Hi, Loni,

Sorry to hear you are still having to live in your car at the park. I hope the block building will work for you.

If you do build a block building, you might be able to put windows on the side of the building that faces your family's home, using your larger house to block frequencies (that is, if your larger home is not generating or reflecting bad frequencies of it's own.) Just a thought. Since I am so far behind in my mail, others may have already suggested this or better ideas.

I have been advised, also, that Hardie plank is one of the best absorption materials for frequencies. Don't know how this compares with cement block, price wise and also blocking wise. Just mentioning this in case someone else knows and will respond. But also mentioning to remind you that you can use more than one material for blocking--layering various products. Blocking fabric might possibly be able to be put inside wall studding. (Emil, am I correct in this?) Also HR++ windows are highly blocking (but pricey) and if anyone knows how these compare with window film, blocking wise, it would be good to know. I think also, that adding window film to HR++ windows, and metal screens to these could only help block more. (If I am wrong in any of these ideas, Anybody, chime in.)

Just a couple of thoughts which you might consider. Hope you will soon have a safe place to stay with your family, Loni.
Diane

--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Bill Bruno <wbruno@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [eSens] Building & Safe Roo
To: eSens@yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 9:57 AM

Use aluminum frame windows. If you stucco over the blocks, especially with
fine chicken wire or lath, there will be a good reduction. However,
sometimes
the reduction you need is really a lot, and if there are ELF magnetic fields
it may not work. There's also the possibility of leakage through the roof.

Bill

On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Loni Rosser <loni326@yahoo. com> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]