Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
 
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Hi all,
Well, it's been difficult enough having this computer/WiFi problem forced upon me - and having to make decisions on how to best deal with the problem.Well, thanks to my cable company - I now have a new problem to contend with. (Sign of the times, I guess - this probably won't be the end of it...) My cable company now requires that I attach a digital converter box to my t.v. to get most of the basic cable channels that I had been getting with a simple cable screwed directly into my t.v. set. So I cannot even get channels like CNN, Fox News, the ESPNs, VH1, etc. - without setting up this digital converter box. Obviously, with my EHS I was leery of bringing an unfamiliar electrical device into my bedroom. Apparently, my leeriness was justified. Where I sort-of "lucked out" in this unlucky situation is that my brother happened to be home on a visit when these new digital converter boxes (provided free by Comcast) arrived. My brother didn't hesitate to install his converter box in his bedroom. So, I've had the opportunity to "safely" test it out, so to speak, from a symptom standpoint. And boy, things don't lookgood. As soon as I enter my brother's bedroom, I feel a distinctly uncomfortable "energy". It's hard to describe - but the negative "energy field" hits me as soon as I enter the room - when the t.v. (with the converter box) is still about 9 feet (2.7 m) away. I suppose that the closer you get to it, theworse it gets - although I really haven't concentrated on that aspect of it because I've been so concerned with the fact that the converter box's "bad field" seems to fill the room. It seems to be the type of energy that would only add to my already considerable problems - I just don't think it's something I could live with without some signficant "tweaking" (if that's possible). And what do you know? Comcast "fixed" it so that you can never turn that sucker off (without unplugging it). The converter box came with a remote control that you can use to change channels, adjust volume, and even turn thet.v. off - but even when the t.v. is turned "off", the converter box remains "ON". What a cruel "feature". The box is only about 4 in. by 6 in. (10 cm by 15 cm) - the brand is Motorolla. It has a fairly sizable transformer "brick" at the end of the power cord, right where it plugs into an outlet. So that's an indication that high-frequency "dirty electricity" is being generated, at least near the transformer box. The only "emf meter" I have is the basic-model radio shack AM/FM radio thatI use as a crude RF meter. Sure enough - if I hold the radio within 5 or so inches from the transformer box, I do get a distinct buzzing sound. Thesame applies for the skinny cord leading from the transformer box to the device itself - distinct buzzing within 5 inches, all along the cord. Interestingly, when I hold the radio close to the converter box itself, I don't hear a distinct buzz at the AM frequencies that the transformer brick and cord responded to. However, I do get a sharp sound (that sounds somewhere between a whistle and a bunch of crickets chirping) at a particular AM frequency toward the upper end of the band. I guess I should mention that my brother has the power cord plugged into a surge-protector/power strip, not into the wall itself. I thought I read a recent post from Marc that a regular surge protector makes things worse? Is this correct? So do I have to make the sacrifice and go back to 1980 - where I'm only getting the "Big 3" network channels with a few extras thrown in? Or is therea way in which I can make the digital converter tolerable? Perhaps a Furman power strip would make it more tolerable? Or a ferrite bead (or two) placed on the skinny cord? Or what if I try to shield the converter box itself (at least on 3 sides) with aluminum or Mu Metal? (I should mention herethat the converter box stays pretty warm to the touch.) Thanks for any help! ~Svetaswan |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
Administrator
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> The box is only about 4 in. by 6 in. (10 cm by 15 cm) - the brand is
> Motorolla. It has a fairly sizable transformer "brick" at the end of the > power cord, right where it plugs into an outlet. So that's an indication > that high-frequency "dirty electricity" is being generated, at least near > the transformer box. Comcast has different kinds of digital converter boxes -- maybe you'd do better with a different model? We've got one of the HDTV DVR boxes, and it seems fine to me... > I guess I should mention that my brother has the power cord plugged into > a surge-protector/power strip, not into the wall itself. I thought I > read a recent post from Marc that a regular surge protector makes things > worse? Is this correct? No, you can't make a generalization about surge protectors based on one persons reaction to one particular surge protector. I have no problem at all with the Furman PST-8 or PST-10, for example. Although these are pretty expensive. Marc |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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--- In [hidden email], "Marc Martin" <marc@...> wrote: > > Comcast has different kinds of digital converter boxes -- maybe you'd > do better with a different model? We've got one of the HDTV DVR boxes, > and it seems fine to me... ------->Well, it sounds like getting a different kind of digital converter box would equate to upgrading my service - which I pretty much want to avoid, if possible. (I may have no choice in the matter, anyway.) It costs extra for an HDTV box...even more for one with DVR, I presume. I don't have a HDTV anyway - at least not yet. Two t.v.s in my home are equipped with Comcast's much larger digital cable service box - the kind that enables you to get the zillion channels that Comcast offers (depending on what package you purchase), plus "On Demand" service. The plan we have doesn't allow for more than two t.v.s to get the full-service box - which means the t.v.s in my and my brother's bedrooms are out-of-luck. When I'm in the vicinity of these big boxes, I don't seem to have much of any problems - I mean, I've been around these boxes for years and haven't felt any particular discomfort. So I have an idea of what you mean when you say that a different box may be less troublesome. But I don't know how possible it would be to experiment with different boxes when it would basically mean upgrading our service plan. But it's possible that Comcast/Motorolla may be building *all* of their boxes more cheaply and less emf-safe these days. I don't know how old your HDTV/DVR box is, but our full-sized boxes are several years old, I believe. Could this be Comcast's devious way of forcing an upgrade? J/K - I think. ~Svetaswan > > > No, you can't make a generalization about surge protectors based on one > persons reaction to one particular surge protector. I have no problem > at all with the Furman PST-8 or PST-10, for example. Although these > are pretty expensive. > > Marc > ----------->I wasn't referring to the Furman or any of the "filtering" power strips when I made that reference to what you said earlier. I thought you were saying that the regular, run-of-the-mill surge-protector/strips - the kind that have no "special" properties and that you can find pretty much anywhere - may exacerbate the RF/emf problems of appliances. In other words, if my brother's generic, "cheap" surge protector was replaced by a Furman (or a Quantum) power strip, would that make things significantly better? ~Svetaswan |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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> But it's possible that Comcast/Motorolla may be building *all* of their
> boxes more cheaply and less emf-safe these days. I don't know how old > your HDTV/DVR box is, but our full-sized boxes are several years old, I > believe. Yes, my HDTV/DVR box is definitely on a more expensive plan the free converter boxes they give away, and our box is at least a year or two old. But it sounds like the more expensive boxes are easier to tolerate than the free ones. Marc |
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I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies used for almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they work. Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv to the DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, this can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what happens 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf being generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be more than likely from the power supply) 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this nastyrf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power supply and the TV itself. Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a big difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear power supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching power supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely little. Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery butthis might not be most convenient solution. 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. -Cris |
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maybe this is what is happening with the Plasma TV set up over the road -
Sadly the attitude of the couple is its our telly its our life we will not be told what to do by anyone, go crawl into a corner and die sort of thing. In a message dated 18/04/2010 09:01:31 GMT Daylight Time, [hidden email] writes: I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies used for almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they work. Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv to the DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, this can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what happens 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf being generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be more than likely from the power supply) 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this nasty rf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power supply and the TV itself. Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a big difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear power supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching power supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely little. Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery but this might not be most convenient solution. 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. -Cris [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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In reply to this post by cris_aov
you can get really small digital converter boxes, that plug straight back
into the scart of the tv at the rear In a message dated 18/04/2010 01:45:31 GMT Daylight Time, [hidden email] writes: Hi all, Well, it's been difficult enough having this computer/WiFi problem forced upon me - and having to make decisions on how to best deal with the problem. Well, thanks to my cable company - I now have a new problem to contend with. (Sign of the times, I guess - this probably won't be the end of it...) My cable company now requires that I attach a digital converter box to my t.v. to get most of the basic cable channels that I had been getting with a simple cable screwed directly into my t.v. set. So I cannot even get channels like CNN, Fox News, the ESPNs, VH1, etc. - without setting up this digital converter box. Obviously, with my EHS I was leery of bringing an unfamiliar electrical device into my bedroom. Apparently, my leeriness was justified. Where I sort-of "lucked out" in this unlucky situation is that my brother happened to be home on a visit when these new digital converter boxes (provided free by Comcast) arrived. My brother didn't hesitate to install his converter box in his bedroom. So, I've had the opportunity to "safely" test it out, so to speak, from a symptom standpoint. And boy, things don't look good. As soon as I enter my brother's bedroom, I feel a distinctly uncomfortable "energy". It's hard to describe - but the negative "energy field" hits me as soon as I enter the room - when the t.v. (with the converter box) is still about 9 feet (2.7 m) away. I suppose that the closer you get to it, the worse it gets - although I really haven't concentrated on that aspect of it because I've been so concerned with the fact that the converter box's "bad field" seems to fill the room. It seems to be the type of energy that would only add to my already considerable problems - I just don't think it's something I could live with without some signficant "tweaking" (if that's possible). And what do you know? Comcast "fixed" it so that you can never turn that sucker off (without unplugging it). The converter box came with a remote control that you can use to change channels, adjust volume, and even turn the t.v. off - but even when the t.v. is turned "off", the converter box remains "ON". What a cruel "feature". The box is only about 4 in. by 6 in. (10 cm by 15 cm) - the brand is Motorolla. It has a fairly sizable transformer "brick" at the end of the power cord, right where it plugs into an outlet. So that's an indication that high-frequency "dirty electricity" is being generated, at least near the transformer box. The only "emf meter" I have is the basic-model radio shack AM/FM radio that I use as a crude RF meter. Sure enough - if I hold the radio within 5or so inches from the transformer box, I do get a distinct buzzing sound. The same applies for the skinny cord leading from the transformer box to the device itself - distinct buzzing within 5 inches, all along the cord. Interestingly, when I hold the radio close to the converter box itself, I don't hear a distinct buzz at the AM frequencies that the transformer brick and cord responded to. However, I do get a sharp sound (that sounds somewhere between a whistle and a bunch of crickets chirping) at a particular AM frequency toward the upper end of the band. I guess I should mention that my brother has the power cord plugged into a surge-protector/I guess I should mention that my brother has the power cord plugged into a surge-protector/<WBR>power strip, not into the wall itself. I thought I So do I have to make the sacrifice and go back to 1980 - where I'm only getting the "Big 3" network channels with a few extras thrown in? Or is there a way in which I can make the digital converter tolerable? Perhaps a Furman power strip would make it more tolerable? Or a ferrite bead (or two) placed on the skinny cord? Or what if I try to shield the converter box itself (at least on 3 sides) with aluminum or Mu Metal? (I should mention here that the converter box stays pretty warm to the touch.) Thanks for any help! ~Svetaswan [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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In reply to this post by cris_aov
Yes,
the TV as well as the digital converter box do make *dirty power* as well as *dirty air*. There are big filters, which can be placed inside the breaker cabinet. (For instance www.bajog.de) Greetings, Charles Claessens member Verband Baubiologie www.milieuziektes.nl www.milieuziektes.be www.hetbitje.nl checked by Norton ----- Original Message ----- From: "cris_aov" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:58 AM Subject: [eSens] Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated > > > I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies used > for almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" > and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they work. > > > Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv to > the DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, this > can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what > happens > > 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise > > > 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf being > generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be > more than likely from the power supply) > > > 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this > nasty rf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power supply > and the TV itself. > > > > Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a big > difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 > > 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear power > supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching power > supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely little. > Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery > but this might not be most convenient solution. > > 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, > something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. > > > -Cris > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > |
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In reply to this post by cris_aov
I have satellite receivers and not cable boxes. What I did was put all the receivers in another room besides the room/rooms that I watch t.v. in. I then used Smart Home Technology to use infra-red remotes (not the kind that go through walls as these are very bad).
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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In reply to this post by cris_aov
Sobering stuff about the t.v. "amplifying" RF noise. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would assume that an LCD TV would do this more than a CRT TV - due to the fact that they use their own switching power supplies (I think?), use CCFL backlighting, generate more RF than CRTs, etc. And I think I may need to buy a LCD TV in the very near future - which makes getting this problem under control even more crucial. I'm not tech savvy at all (in case this wasn't already apparent ;) ) - and have no experience with tinkering with electrical components, replacing parts, customizing, and stuff to that end. So how does a totally inexperienced person like myself go about switching the power supply of the Comcast "Digital Transporter Adapter" (its "official" name) from "switching" to linear? (Without harming the device, of course.) ~Svetaswan --- In [hidden email], "cris_aov" <cris_aov@...> wrote: > > > > I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies usedfor almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they work. > > > Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv tothe DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, this can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what happens > > 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise > > > 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf being generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be morethan likely from the power supply) > > > 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this nasty rf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power supply andthe TV itself. > > > > Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a big difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 > > 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear power supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching power supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely little.Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery but this might not be most convenient solution. > > 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. > > > -Cris > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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In reply to this post by charles-4
Well, not only do I have almost no hands-on tech experience - I don't understand Dutch. Is there a way in which you can explain to me in English what you are referring to? By "breaker cabinet", do you mean the switching power supply (a.k.a. the "power brick" located at the end of the cord)? Are there English-language instructions located somewhere (that's preferably novice-friendly) on how to do this? ~Svetaswan --- In [hidden email], "charles" <charles@...> wrote: > > Yes, > > the TV as well as the digital converter box do make *dirty power* as wellas > *dirty air*. > > There are big filters, which can be placed inside the breaker cabinet. > (For instance www.bajog.de) > > Greetings, > Charles Claessens > member Verband Baubiologie > www.milieuziektes.nl > www.milieuziektes.be > www.hetbitje.nl > checked by Norton > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "cris_aov" <cris_aov@...> > To: <[hidden email]> > Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:58 AM > Subject: [eSens] Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help > appreciated > > > > > > > > I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies used > > for almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" > > and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they work. > > > > > > Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv to > > the DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, this > > can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what > > happens > > > > 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise > > > > > > 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf being > > generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be > > more than likely from the power supply) > > > > > > 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this > > nasty rf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power supply > > and the TV itself. > > > > > > > > Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a big > > difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 > > > > 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear power > > supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching power > > supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely little. > > Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery > > but this might not be most convenient solution. > > > > 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, > > something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. > > > > > > -Cris > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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In reply to this post by Svetaswan-2
> Sobering stuff about the t.v. "amplifying" RF noise. Correct me if I'm
> wrong, but I would assume that an LCD TV would do this more than a CRT TV > - due to the fact that they use their own switching power supplies Well, CRTs have high voltage, and a big magnetic field... you could be better off with an LCD (if you get lucky and it is designed well). > I'm not tech savvy at all (in case this wasn't already apparent ;) ) - > and have no experience with tinkering with electrical components, > replacing parts, customizing, and stuff to that end. So how does a > totally inexperienced person like myself go about switching the power > supply of the Comcast "Digital Transporter Adapter" The power supply is an external "brick"? You need to look at how many volts and amps it is, and then find a linear power supply with the same volts and at least as many amps (or more). Then you have to find an adapter so you can plug it into the back of your box. Marc |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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> The power supply is an external "brick"? You need to look at how many
> volts and amps it is, and then find a linear power supply with the same > volts and at least as many amps (or more). Then you have to find an > adapter so you can plug it into the back of your box. Also, before starting any of this, you should see if your power supply actually is a switching power supply. Either it would say so on the label, or it would say that it works on all voltages (e.g. 110v - 230v). Also, you need to check and see if the center of the output plug is "+" (it should say all this on the label of the power supply). Then you need to look around for someone selling a linear version: http://www.powersupplydepot.com/listitems.asp?dept=37&main=1 (anyone -- does he want a regulated or unregulated power supply?) Marc |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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In reply to this post by PUK
I'm not sure what an scart is - would this be on the back of the average LCD or CRT television manufactured in the United States? Also, I'm thinking that a 3rd party digital converter (purchased from another source than Comcast) won't work - because Comcast scrambles or "encrypts" their digital signals....and your only option is to go through Comcast if you want your t.v.to carry their channels. It's frustrating, it's monopolistic - but, that'show Comca$$$t chooses to operate. There is a "CableCard" option - theoretically, Comcast offers a small "card" that you can plug into a compatable t.v. to receive their digital signals....but from what I've seen, I'm not sure how practical or reliable this option is. It seems that cable companies hate CableCards (but are required by the FCC to offer them) - and hence offer shoddy service/tech support whenit comes to these devices. Also, it seems that few LCD TVs (at least the smaller ones) carry a CableCard slot - it's like they've sort-of "given up"on this technology. ~Svetaswan --- In [hidden email], paulpjc@... wrote: > > you can get really small digital converter boxes, that plug straight back > into the scart of the tv at the rear > > > In a message dated 18/04/2010 01:45:31 GMT Daylight Time, > svetaswan@... writes: > > > > > Hi all, > > Well, it's been difficult enough having this computer/WiFi problem forced > upon me - and having to make decisions on how to best deal with the > problem. Well, thanks to my cable company - I now have a new problem to contend > with. (Sign of the times, I guess - this probably won't be the end of it...) > > My cable company now requires that I attach a digital converter box to my > t.v. to get most of the basic cable channels that I had been getting with a > simple cable screwed directly into my t.v. set. So I cannot even get > channels like CNN, Fox News, the ESPNs, VH1, etc. - without setting up this > digital converter box. Obviously, with my EHS I was leery of bringing an > unfamiliar electrical device into my bedroom. Apparently, my leeriness was > justified. > > Where I sort-of "lucked out" in this unlucky situation is that my brother > happened to be home on a visit when these new digital converter boxes > (provided free by Comcast) arrived. My brother didn't hesitate to install his > converter box in his bedroom. So, I've had the opportunity to "safely" test > it out, so to speak, from a symptom standpoint. And boy, things don't look > good. > > As soon as I enter my brother's bedroom, I feel a distinctly uncomfortable > "energy". It's hard to describe - but the negative "energy field" hits me > as soon as I enter the room - when the t.v. (with the converter box) is > still about 9 feet (2.7 m) away. I suppose that the closer you get to it, the > worse it gets - although I really haven't concentrated on that aspect ofit > because I've been so concerned with the fact that the converter box's "bad > field" seems to fill the room. It seems to be the type of energy that > would only add to my already considerable problems - I just don't think it's > something I could live with without some signficant "tweaking" (if that's > possible). > > And what do you know? Comcast "fixed" it so that you can never turn that > sucker off (without unplugging it). The converter box came with a remote > control that you can use to change channels, adjust volume, and even turn the > t.v. off - but even when the t.v. is turned "off", the converter box > remains "ON". What a cruel "feature". > > The box is only about 4 in. by 6 in. (10 cm by 15 cm) - the brand is > Motorolla. It has a fairly sizable transformer "brick" at the end of thepower > cord, right where it plugs into an outlet. So that's an indication that > high-frequency "dirty electricity" is being generated, at least near the > transformer box. > > The only "emf meter" I have is the basic-model radio shack AM/FM radio > that I use as a crude RF meter. Sure enough - if I hold the radio within5 or > so inches from the transformer box, I do get a distinct buzzing sound. The > same applies for the skinny cord leading from the transformer box to the > device itself - distinct buzzing within 5 inches, all along the cord. > > Interestingly, when I hold the radio close to the converter box itself, I > don't hear a distinct buzz at the AM frequencies that the transformer brick > and cord responded to. However, I do get a sharp sound (that sounds > somewhere between a whistle and a bunch of crickets chirping) at a particular AM > frequency toward the upper end of the band. > > I guess I should mention that my brother has the power cord plugged intoa > surge-protector/I guess I should mention that my brother has the power > cord plugged into a surge-protector/<WBR>power strip, not into the wall > itself. I thought I > > So do I have to make the sacrifice and go back to 1980 - where I'm only > getting the "Big 3" network channels with a few extras thrown in? Or is there > a way in which I can make the digital converter tolerable? Perhaps a > Furman power strip would make it more tolerable? Or a ferrite bead (or two) > placed on the skinny cord? Or what if I try to shield the converter box itself > (at least on 3 sides) with aluminum or Mu Metal? (I should mention here > that the converter box stays pretty warm to the touch.) > > Thanks for any help! > > ~Svetaswan > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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In reply to this post by Marc Martin
O.K. - I just went into my brother's room and copied down what it says on the Motorola power "brick". I'll try to relay only the relevant info - it looks like a switching power supply: INPUT: 110 - 127V ~ 60Hz 0.25A OUTPUT: +12V - 750mA Also, on the Digital Adapter itself, right where the cord from the power supply plugs in - it says "+12V DC IN" So am I good for switching to a linear supply (that is - if I can pull it off)? ~Svetaswan --- In [hidden email], "Marc Martin" <marc@...> wrote: > > > The power supply is an external "brick"? You need to look at how many > > volts and amps it is, and then find a linear power supply with the same > > volts and at least as many amps (or more). Then you have to find an > > adapter so you can plug it into the back of your box. > > Also, before starting any of this, you should see if your power supply > actually is a switching power supply. Either it would say so on the > label, or it would say that it works on all voltages (e.g. 110v - 230v). > > Also, you need to check and see if the center of the output plug is > "+" (it should say all this on the label of the power supply). > > Then you need to look around for someone selling a linear version: > > http://www.powersupplydepot.com/listitems.asp?dept=37&main=1 > > (anyone -- does he want a regulated or unregulated power supply?) > > Marc > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated
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O.k. - I'm confused. I thought that a "switching power supply" was any power supply that transformed one voltage into another (usually lower) voltage- but apparently there is more to it than that? What I'm now finding out is that the power supply on the Digital Adapter could actually be...a linear power supply?? Here I was assuming that the external power supply of my troublesome laptopwas also a switching power supply - but could that actually be linear as well? Why do I seem to get such strong indications that these power supplies (andoften the appliances attached to them) are generating a pretty ample amount of RF if these power supplies are in fact linear? ~Svetaswan --- In [hidden email], "svetaswan" <svetaswan@...> wrote: > > > > O.K. - I just went into my brother's room and copied down what it says onthe Motorola power "brick". I'll try to relay only the relevant info - itlooks like a switching power supply: > > INPUT: 110 - 127V ~ 60Hz 0.25A > OUTPUT: +12V - 750mA > > Also, on the Digital Adapter itself, right where the cord from the power supply plugs in - it says "+12V DC IN" > > So am I good for switching to a linear supply (that is - if I can pull itoff)? > > ~Svetaswan > > --- In [hidden email], "Marc Martin" <marc@> wrote: > > > > > The power supply is an external "brick"? You need to look at how many > > > volts and amps it is, and then find a linear power supply with the same > > > volts and at least as many amps (or more). Then you have to find an > > > adapter so you can plug it into the back of your box. > > > > Also, before starting any of this, you should see if your power supply > > actually is a switching power supply. Either it would say so on the > > label, or it would say that it works on all voltages (e.g. 110v - 230v). > > > > Also, you need to check and see if the center of the output plug is > > "+" (it should say all this on the label of the power supply). > > > > Then you need to look around for someone selling a linear version: > > > > http://www.powersupplydepot.com/listitems.asp?dept=37&main=1 > > > > (anyone -- does he want a regulated or unregulated power supply?) > > > > Marc > > > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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> O.k. - I'm confused. I thought that a "switching power supply" was any
> power supply that transformed one voltage into another (usually lower) > voltage - but apparently there is more to it than that? No, a switching power supply is just one of several options... from what's written on the label, I'm not convinced that is a switching power supply... maybe someone knows more about this, as I'm hardly an expert... > Why do I seem to get such strong indications that these power supplies > (and often the appliances attached to them) are generating a pretty ample > amount of RF if these power supplies are in fact linear? You may be reacting to whatever is converting the signal from digital to analog. The power supply may have nothing to do with it... Marc |
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In reply to this post by Svetaswan-2
You do not understand dutch ?
It is not dutch, but german. (Lots of germans do not understand dutch, although these languages are quite familiar. English is grammatically the easiest language in the world.) No problem. Just click on the english flag, and by magic, the text changes into english. By breaker cabinet I mean the cabinet weher all the fuses and breakers are, where the main electricity cables enter the house. It is also the place where the meter for your electricity consumption is placed. Greetings, Charles Claessens member Verband Baubiologie www.milieuziektes.nl www.milieuziektes.be www.hetbitje.nl checked by Norton ----- Original Message ----- From: "svetaswan" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 4:57 AM Subject: [eSens] Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help appreciated > > > Well, not only do I have almost no hands-on tech experience - I don't > understand Dutch. Is there a way in which you can explain to me in English > what you are referring to? By "breaker cabinet", do you mean the > switching power supply (a.k.a. the "power brick" located at the end of the > cord)? > > Are there English-language instructions located somewhere (that's > preferably novice-friendly) on how to do this? > > ~Svetaswan > > --- In [hidden email], "charles" <charles@...> wrote: >> >> Yes, >> >> the TV as well as the digital converter box do make *dirty power* as well >> as >> *dirty air*. >> >> There are big filters, which can be placed inside the breaker cabinet. >> (For instance www.bajog.de) >> >> Greetings, >> Charles Claessens >> member Verband Baubiologie >> www.milieuziektes.nl >> www.milieuziektes.be >> www.hetbitje.nl >> checked by Norton >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "cris_aov" <cris_aov@...> >> To: <[hidden email]> >> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:58 AM >> Subject: [eSens] Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help >> appreciated >> >> >> > >> > >> > I think the power supply may be the main problem, the power supplies >> > used >> > for almost all of our electronics are called "switching power supplies" >> > and these generate a lot of RF noise by the very nature of how they >> > work. >> > >> > >> > Ive found that when you electrically connect two devices (like your tv >> > to >> > the DA converter box) in which each device has its own power supply, >> > this >> > can sometimes create some really nasty results, I think this is what >> > happens >> > >> > 1. power supply for dac box generates a lot of rf noise >> > >> > >> > 2. rf noise from power supply travels to DA box and adds to the rf >> > being >> > generated by the da box itself (the bulk of the total rf noise will be >> > more than likely from the power supply) >> > >> > >> > 3. all this RF then travels to the TV and the TV "amplifies" all this >> > nasty rf noise as well as the rf already generated by the TVs power >> > supply >> > and the TV itself. >> > >> > >> > >> > Theres two things you have to do which I can think of that will make a >> > big >> > difference, the one that will make the major difference is number 1 >> > >> > 1. Replace the "switching power supply" of the DA box with a "linear >> > power >> > supply", a "linear power supply" works differently than a "switching >> > power >> > supply" , a linear power supply generates no rf or only extremely >> > little. >> > Another alternative would be to replace it with a high capacity battery >> > but this might not be most convenient solution. >> > >> > 2. Have each device plugged into its own rf isolated surge protector, >> > something like a tripp lite isobar or the one Marc uses. >> > >> > >> > -Cris >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > ------------------------------------ >> > >> > Yahoo! Groups Links >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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In reply to this post by Svetaswan-2
> Here I was assuming that the external power supply of my troublesome
> laptop was also a switching power supply - but could that actually be > linear as well? Laptop power supplies *are* often switching -- what does it say on the label? If it says something like INPUT: AC 120 - 240 volts 50/60 hz, then it *is* a switching power supply (because it can handle a very wide range of input voltage) Marc |
Re: Digital converter (for t.v.) problems - help
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Administrator
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In reply to this post by Svetaswan-2
> I'm not sure what an scart is - would this be on the back of the average
> LCD or CRT television manufactured in the United States? SCART is not on American TVs. > Also, I'm > thinking that a 3rd party digital converter (purchased from another > source than Comcast) won't work - because Comcast scrambles or "encrypts" > their digital signals.... a You could get a TIVO, and then ask Comcast for cable card for it. That would unscramble the channels, and may be higher quality equipment (more tolerable) than Comcast offers. Marc |
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