RE: Electric

Posted by KathyB on
URL: https://www.es-forum.com/Electric-tp3632392p3632812.html


The washer &  gas dryer were off. There is a light switch above & a few feet from the area measured that was on. To my knowledge they are grounded.

The main breaker is 4 -6 feet away . It's is grounded on the water pipes 4- 6 ft away.  This is where the higher readings are. Thee water pipe runs a long the ceiling above above & near the washer & dryer.

There was a higher reading of 15 G at a light switch,  that's across the basement we have to have unhooked.

What is an average cost of installing a grounding rod?

Do you know what a plumber might charge to reconfigure  6 section of pipes? Might be a lot.

Kathy

 <[hidden email]> wrote:
 [eSens] Electric
















 



 


   
     
     
     

Is the outlet for washer/dryer grounded?

Gas or electric appliances?

Were wsher/dryer running when tested with meter?

Where is the water pipe, next to washer/dryer? What else is there, in that area? Is it on same wall as main power box?

Is where your water comes in, at the main power box location?

Ductwork in some cases can be moved/ or configuration changed to allow space between pipe & ductwork.

Grounding rods: the way I understand it is: typical houses require 2, s/times 3.

The rods are buried 10-12 ft down, within 3 feet of house, then thick cable is wrapped around tip of grounding rod, strung up (secured) under lip of siding, pulled thru a hole that enters the house where the main panel box is, then attached/grounded to ele, water and gas at this area, inside the house, right by the panel box. This is called : the Service Entrance. The service entrance is "where" the grounding is supposed to be. This is CODE now, but wasn't before 2011. It was common for electrical to be grounded to water pipes, willy nilly...which they now know causes net current to piggyback on water lines.

Wonder if you could insulate the water line next to the gas line? To break the current.

Remember, anyone connected to the city's water system will have current piggybacking onto their water lines inside the house-where the city's water lines are made of metal. Newer areas may not have iron/metal water lines. Diaelectric unions are not always sufficient to stop/interrupt current. S/times replacing a 3 ft section of water line at the SERVICE ENTRANCE with the plastic piping- this is on the inside of house, where YOUR water line meets the city's water line.

 Lizzie






 










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