> **
>
>
> >Just a thought on the mu cable. Michael Neuert from emfcenter.com -
> >recommends MC CABle...it is twisted, it is shielded and he says it works
> >better then MU cable.
>
> MC Cable is electric field shielded only. Not magnetic shielded.
> MuCord reduces both electric AND magnetic emissions.
>
> Emil
>
>
> To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
> From: [hidden email]
> Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:55:27 -0400
> Subject: [eSens] Shielding a small trailer with YShield (or something
> else?): Best way to go about it?
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> My girlfriend and I both want to build all-season trailers to live in. We
> both have some issues with EMFs, and need clean, protected dwellings to
> live
> in.
>
> The main points to mention first are:
>
> a) We both try to find land in the country to put our dwellings that are as
> low EMF *as possible*, but as you know, it can be challenging to find
> somewhere with no wireless service or communications towers; but we do our
> best. Still, we want a shielded space so it can be put anywhere temporarily
> if need be.
>
> b) We both will eventually want to have independent, offgrid systems for
> our
> trailers, but for now (time is of the essence), her trailer (which'll be
> ready before mine) will be powered via an extension cord using power from
> one of the circuits on this property.
>
> *Now, the specifics:*
> *
> *
> 1. Her living space will be 8 feet wide and 20 feet long.
>
> 2. The flat-bed trailer onto which the living space will be placed is 8
> feet
> wide and 20 feet long (to allow for more living space in the future).
>
> 3. The living space will be made of wood. It will have a three glass
> windows, about 24 inches by 30, and one steel door with a window in it.
>
> 4. She would like to have three AC electrical outlets in it, all along one
> of the long walls.
>
> 5. The AC electricity would come from an extension cord from another
> circuit
> on the property, about 250 feet away. It would enter a "master plug" on her
> trailer and be distributed to the three electrical outlets mentioned above.
> The master plug would, ideally, be on the same side of the trailer as the
> three plugs to minimize lengths of live wires.
>
> 6. For simplicity's sake we thought that the wiring could run along the
> where the floor and wall meet (much like a baseboard), then up and into
> three different outlets. (Not *inside of the walls*, but along the base one
> wall, inside the structure).
>
> 7. I proposed that the wire we use for the AC electricity is "MµCord",
> found at the top of this page: http://www.lessemf.com/wiring.html As you
> can see, it provides what looks like considerable reduction of electric and
> magnetic fields.
>
> 8. I also thought of putting the MµCord in thick metal conduit (like metal
> pipe) to further reduce fields (mostly dirty electricity frequencies that
> may be riding on the wiring).
>
> 7. Most of the "daily use" things in the trailer (the lights, the radio,
> etc.) will run directly off a deep cycle battery, direct current. (Solar is
> the final goal, but this has to get done before winter, and with the time
> needed to research components and the cost of acquiring them, plus filters
> for charge controllers, etc., it's just not an immediate option. The
> battery will be charged with an AC powered battery charger; I've found that
> the basic (not "smart"/"intelligent") automotive chargers have a simple
> design inside that looks like a linear transformer; their magnetic field is
> high, but drops off with distance, and they create a bit of AM radio buzz,
> but that drops off fast and doesn't seem to transfer through the battery
> into the interior DC wiring.)
>
> 8. The fridge and stove can be powered with propane. The fridge we have
> here can also run on AC, and is completely silent (no compressor) and has
> no
> measurable magnetic field on AC more than an inch or so away). The fridge,
> if using electricity, can simply have an extension cord plugged into the
> back of it, outside the trailer.
>
> 9. The electricity here could be cleaner (the property owner has a lot of
> high-tech junk in his office; the AM radio goes wild in that building).
> Right now (in my ordinary trailer that won't serve well in the winter), the
> power comes in through an extension cord at the front. That cord runs
> through a grounded 80 dollar powerline filter and then through the 500
> dollar Audio Power Ultra Filter 1 (got it cheap on eBay) before it gets to
> my computer.
>
> However, the Ultra Filter 1 is going back with me for the winter, so I
> propose that a breaker switch (or whatever it's called) be installed in my
> partner's trailer (since she'll only have three outlets and one circuit),
> so
> she can turn off the AC power when it's not in use, or when she's sleeping.
> Also, I think the "master cord" providing power to her three plugs should
> be easily accessible to unplug so the dirty frequencies can't be conducted
> onto the wiring.
>
> *And now, for the questions:*
>
> 1. In light of everything I said, what's the best way to shield this
> trailer? I was thinking at least a couple of coats of Yshield paint on the
> inside of all the walls and the ceiling (unless she gets a metal roof).
>
> However, I also saw this at LessEMF.com: http://www.lessemf.com/259.pdf
>
> It sounds like an interesting alternative to the YShield paint, also acting
> as both an absorber and reflector. However, the fact that it's laminated on
> both sides concerns me, since that suggests it couldn't be grounded, unlike
> the Yshield, which has a grounding plate that can be attached directly to
> the paint. What are your thoughts?
>
> 2. My partner wouldn't be using much of concern *inside* the trailer. She
> doesn't use or own a cellphone or cordless phones. She would be using a
> wired internet connection (run from an office some 300 feet away, using
> fiber optic cable), on her (non-wireless) laptop, running on its battery.
> Everything else would be running on DC from a battery (lights, radio,
> etc.).
>
> She uses her laptop for her job in an office building, which is much higher
> exposure than what she'd get here in the trailer, so even using it in this
> space would probably be a big improvement.
>
> That being said, I think the biggest concern would be the dirty electricity
> on the AC line coming in to her 3-plug circuit. Remember, the wire going to
> these three plugs would run most or all of the length of one of the
> trailer's long walls.
>
> Although she could unplug the whole system at night, what about during the
> day if/when she's using the electricity? Would the combination of a
> mid-performance filter at the entry point of the trailer, and the MuCord
> wiring *inside* of thick-walled metal conduit likely suffice to keep the
> dirt out of the air and prevent it from being conducted onto the shielded
> walls?
>
> 3. Should the YShield (if that's what we use) be grounded on the wall that
> has the electrical cord running along it?
>
> 4. There will be no household electrical or water pipes. Therefore, the
> YShield would have to be grounded with a ground wire to the earth outside
> of
> the trailer. Should we simply drive a copper rod 3 or 4 feet into the
> ground and attach the ground wire to it?
>
> 5. Do all the walls and the ceiling, if painted with YShield, have to be
> overlapped with conductive tape in the corners?
>
> 6. As for windows, I know from experience that the various fabric meshes of
> conductive fabric work very well for keeping out wireless RF; however, my
> partner actually wants some glass windows and doors to let light in. I
> recall *Bill Bruno* mentioning in another message that Low-E glass helps
> keep RF out. Can this be confirmed? Are there other suggestions to use on
> windows that would keep RF out but let light in and be aesthetically
> pleasing?
>
> 7. As for the filter in front of the trailer, that filters the incoming AC
> electricity, should it be grounded to a separate copper rod than that of
> the
> YShield or chosen shielding material?
>
> (On that note, what, truly, is the best way to ground shielding material,
> especially where dirty electricity is concerned; and does having a shielded
> building, grounded, pose a hazard for lightning strikes?)
>
> Okay, I think that covers it for now. Lots of questions, I know, but this
> is a really important project for us; if you all could help out with the
> best way to do it, we'd both appreciate it a lot!
>
> Thanks kindly, and take care.
>
> R.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
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