Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc.
Locked
 
|
Hi Everyone,
We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the house are not good. We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do regarding windows. Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to the glass (sold by lessemf.com)? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we don'twant to throw our money away with things that won't work. Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as well. Thanks for taking the time to read this, Edo |
|
|
Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding paints caninfact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. Theidea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped and bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one else will verify this, but for me this hasalways been my sticking point with regards to using the paints. A --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <[hidden email]> wrote: From: edomor2 <[hidden email]> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. To: [hidden email] Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 Hi Everyone, We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the house are not good. We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do regarding windows. Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as well. Thanks for taking the time to read this, Edo [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that
removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might create a shock hazard). The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his windows. The films really are not as good, and bonding to the paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all kinds of mesh, including copper and bronze... B On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <[hidden email]>wrote: > > > > > Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding paints can > infact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. The > idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped and > bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to > be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one > else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > point with regards to using the paints. > > > A > > --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <[hidden email] <edo%40momoglass.com>> > wrote: > > From: edomor2 <[hidden email] <edo%40momoglass.com>> > Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> > Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the > house are not good. > > We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the > bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon > graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do > regarding windows. > > Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to > the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we > don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > > Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other > window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as > well. > > Thanks for taking the time to read this, > > Edo > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Re: Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc.
|
|
> The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect
> screen. Be careful with aluminum screen. Surface oxidation causes non-conductivity between the horizontal and vertical wires. Shielding will be greatly reduced over time, if not right from the outset. Emil |
|
|
I've seen that mentioned elsewhere... but for microwaves I've found even the
charcoal colored aluminum seems to work pretty well ( I can't quantify that, but certainly you can still get more than 20 db). I suspect that conductivity between strands is more important when you have near-field issues, or the screen is not flat (like going around a corner or something). I should add that I have ScotchTint on most of my car windows, and I'm very happy with it (I have amber metallic, which has been discontinued...unfortunately most of the ones they make for cars now are designed to let microwaves through!). Bill On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 11:01 AM, lessemf.com <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > screen. > > Be careful with aluminum screen. Surface oxidation causes non-conductivity > between the horizontal and vertical wires. Shielding will be greatly > reduced > over time, if not right from the outset. > > Emil > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
In reply to this post by BiBrun
Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see if
there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those first or you will have the whole area buzzing. Bill On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <[hidden email]> wrote: > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > create a shock hazard). > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his windows. The > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all kinds of > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > B > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <[hidden email]>wrote: > >> >> >> >> >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding paints >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. The >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped and >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking >> point with regards to using the paints. >> >> >> A >> >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <[hidden email] <edo%40momoglass.com>> >> wrote: >> >> From: edomor2 <[hidden email] <edo%40momoglass.com>> >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 >> >> >> >> >> Hi Everyone, >> >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the >> house are not good. >> >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do >> regarding windows. >> >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. >> >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as >> well. >> >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, >> >> Edo >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
Hi Bill,
Thanks for your thoughts on the shielding. Not sure if I understand this about the AM radio. what needs to be solved exactly and what would be buzzingafter we paint? We're considering the VeilShield product sold at lessemf for the windows, maybe with some small magnets adhered to the window moulding to keep the mesh basically in place. We're not looking for 99.999 -- 99 is good enough. This mesh is a polyester material coated with a nickel-blackened copper finish. Virtually see through and unnoticeable from a distance. Best, Edo --- In [hidden email], Bill Bruno <wbruno@...> wrote: > > Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see if > there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those first > or you will have the whole area buzzing. > Bill > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <wbruno@...> wrote: > > > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > > create a shock hazard). > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his windows. The > > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all kinds of > > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > > > B > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <betty_starbuckle@...>wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding paints > >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. The > >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trappedand > >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to > >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one > >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > >> point with regards to using the paints. > >> > >> > >> A > >> > >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@... <edo%40momoglass.com>> > >> wrote: > >> > >> From: edomor2 <edo@... <edo%40momoglass.com>> > >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> > >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Hi Everyone, > >> > >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the > >> house are not good. > >> > >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the > >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon > >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do > >> regarding windows. > >> > >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to > >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we > >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > >> > >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other > >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as > >> well. > >> > >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, > >> > >> Edo > >> > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
|
|
I have used veil shield. It works well. If you have cats, they may
destroy it. Also my wife didn't like the look unless it was stretched very flat. This can be achieved by taping to the glass, but that makes it hard to connect with the frame. You probably will get your 99 percent but if there is a tower close by you should aim for much better. If the outer wall is at all conductive then oversided metal screens outside will be a big help. Also, having a good detector will help a lot. Bill On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 1:54 PM, edomor2 <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > Hi Bill, > > Thanks for your thoughts on the shielding. Not sure if I understand this > about the AM radio. what needs to be solved exactly and what would be > buzzing after we paint? > > We're considering the VeilShield product sold at lessemf for the windows, > maybe with some small magnets adhered to the window moulding to keep the > mesh basically in place. We're not looking for 99.999 -- 99 is good enough. > This mesh is a polyester material coated with a nickel-blackened copper > finish. Virtually see through and unnoticeable from a distance. > > Best, > > Edo > > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > <wbruno@...> wrote: > > > > Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see if > > there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those > first > > or you will have the whole area buzzing. > > Bill > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <wbruno@...> wrote: > > > > > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > > > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > > > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > > > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > > > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > > > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > > > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > > > create a shock hazard). > > > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > > > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > > > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > > > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > > > > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > > > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > > > > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his windows. > The > > > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > > > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > > > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all kinds > of > > > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > > > > > B > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <betty_starbuckle@...>wrote: > > > > > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding > paints > > >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. > The > > >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped > and > > >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to > > >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one > > >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > > >> point with regards to using the paints. > > >> > > >> > > >> A > > >> > > >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@... <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> From: edomor2 <edo@... <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > > >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > 40yahoogroups.com> > > > >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> Hi Everyone, > > >> > > >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in > the > > >> house are not good. > > >> > > >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with > the > > >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon > > >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do > > >> regarding windows. > > >> > > >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered > to > > >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and > we > > >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > > >> > > >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with > other > > >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be > helpful as > > >> well. > > >> > > >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, > > >> > > >> Edo > > >> > > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
Hi Bill,
No cats here, so that's not a concern. Have thought of hemming a metal bar against the bottom of the Veilshield so that it lies flat against the window frame. We're getting readings outside between 1.5 m/W2 to 4 m/W2; inside the house, the bottom floor ranges from 0.5 m/W2 to 12 m/W2, and the top floor ranges from 2 m/W2 to 21 m/W2. There seem to be hot spots. In the adjacent studio where we work, a larger building and in front of thebedroom in relation to the antenna, we're getting on avg 8-14 mW2 downstairs and 20-60 m/W2 upstairs. The antenna is above us in elevation, 650 meters away. Since the readings are so much higher upstairs, I'm guessing Yshield on the ceilings will help a lot. I don't think our outer wall is conductive at all (We're painting on the inside). We're shielding just the bedroom first and will see how that goes with YShield/Veilshield. We're taking readings with a 3-axis RF meter. Best, Edo --- In [hidden email], Bill Bruno <wbruno@...> wrote: > > I have used veil shield. It works well. If you have cats, they may > destroy it. Also my wife didn't like the look unless it was stretched > very flat. This can be achieved by taping to the glass, but that > makes it hard to connect with the frame. You probably will get > your 99 percent but if there is a tower close by you should aim > for much better. If the outer wall is at all conductive then oversided > metal screens outside will be a big help. Also, having a good detector will > help a lot. > > Bill > > On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 1:54 PM, edomor2 <edo@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Bill, > > > > Thanks for your thoughts on the shielding. Not sure if I understand this > > about the AM radio. what needs to be solved exactly and what would be > > buzzing after we paint? > > > > We're considering the VeilShield product sold at lessemf for the windows, > > maybe with some small magnets adhered to the window moulding to keep the > > mesh basically in place. We're not looking for 99.999 -- 99 is good enough. > > This mesh is a polyester material coated with a nickel-blackened copper > > finish. Virtually see through and unnoticeable from a distance. > > > > Best, > > > > Edo > > > > > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > > <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see if > > > there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those > > first > > > or you will have the whole area buzzing. > > > Bill > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > > > > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > > > > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > > > > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > > > > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > > > > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > > > > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > > > > create a shock hazard). > > > > > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > > > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > > > > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > > > > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > > > > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > > > > > > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > > > > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > > > > > > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his windows. > > The > > > > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > > > > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > > > > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all kinds > > of > > > > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > > > > > > > B > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <betty_starbuckle@>wrote: > > > > > > > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding > > paints > > > >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. > > The > > > >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped > > and > > > >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to > > > >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one > > > >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > > > >> point with regards to using the paints. > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> A > > > >> > > > >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > >> wrote: > > > >> > > > >> From: edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > > > >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > > > >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > > 40yahoogroups.com> > > > > > >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> Hi Everyone, > > > >> > > > >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in > > the > > > >> house are not good. > > > >> > > > >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with > > the > > > >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon > > > >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do > > > >> regarding windows. > > > >> > > > >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered > > to > > > >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and > > we > > > >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > > > >> > > > >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with > > other > > > >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be > > helpful as > > > >> well. > > > >> > > > >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, > > > >> > > > >> Edo > > > >> > > > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
|
|
The strongest energy is coming by line of sight. So if your
house were glass, would you see the tower through the wall or the ceiling? Probably the wall. Focus on parts of the wall where you'd be able to see the tower, or almost able to see it. If you have a directional detector, look at where you get the strongest readings when pointed to the wall or to the tower. (m/W^2 is not right, it should be mW/cm^2 or mW/m^2, and they differ by 10000, or W/m^2 ). The ceiling will help but only if you do a good job on the wall and their are no penetrations (light fixtures, electrical outlets, etc.). Save the ceiling for last and see if the directional meter says it's coming mostly from the very top of the wall. Beware that wiring in the ceiling that comes down to a fixture will be a significant source of leakage through the ceiling if you do the ceiling. Bill On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:33 AM, edomor2 <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > Hi Bill, > > No cats here, so that's not a concern. Have thought of hemming a metal bar > against the bottom of the Veilshield so that it lies flat against the window > frame. > > We're getting readings outside between 1.5 m/W2 to 4 m/W2; inside the > house, the bottom floor ranges from 0.5 m/W2 to 12 m/W2, and the top floor > ranges from 2 m/W2 to 21 m/W2. There seem to be hot spots. > > In the adjacent studio where we work, a larger building and in front of the > bedroom in relation to the antenna, we're getting on avg 8-14 mW2 downstairs > and 20-60 m/W2 upstairs. > > The antenna is above us in elevation, 650 meters away. Since the readings > are so much higher upstairs, I'm guessing Yshield on the ceilings will help > a lot. > > I don't think our outer wall is conductive at all (We're painting on the > inside). We're shielding just the bedroom first and will see how that goes > with YShield/Veilshield. We're taking readings with a 3-axis RF meter. > > > Best, > > Edo > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > <wbruno@...> wrote: > > > > I have used veil shield. It works well. If you have cats, they may > > destroy it. Also my wife didn't like the look unless it was stretched > > very flat. This can be achieved by taping to the glass, but that > > makes it hard to connect with the frame. You probably will get > > your 99 percent but if there is a tower close by you should aim > > for much better. If the outer wall is at all conductive then oversided > > metal screens outside will be a big help. Also, having a good detector > will > > help a lot. > > > > Bill > > > > On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 1:54 PM, edomor2 <edo@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Bill, > > > > > > Thanks for your thoughts on the shielding. Not sure if I understand > this > > > about the AM radio. what needs to be solved exactly and what would be > > > buzzing after we paint? > > > > > > We're considering the VeilShield product sold at lessemf for the > windows, > > > maybe with some small magnets adhered to the window moulding to keep > the > > > mesh basically in place. We're not looking for 99.999 -- 99 is good > enough. > > > This mesh is a polyester material coated with a nickel-blackened copper > > > finish. Virtually see through and unnoticeable from a distance. > > > > > > Best, > > > > > > Edo > > > > > > > > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > 40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > > > > <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see > if > > > > there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those > > > first > > > > or you will have the whole area buzzing. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > > > > > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > > > > > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > > > > > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > > > > > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > > > > > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > > > > > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > > > > > create a shock hazard). > > > > > > > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > > > > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > > > > > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > > > > > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > > > > > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > > > > > > > > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > > > > > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > > > > > > > > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his > windows. > > > The > > > > > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > > > > > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > > > > > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all > kinds > > > of > > > > > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > > > > > > > > > B > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <betty_starbuckle@>wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding > > > paints > > > > >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things > worse. > > > The > > > > >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals > trapped > > > and > > > > >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able > to > > > > >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some > one > > > > >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > > > > >> point with regards to using the paints. > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> A > > > > >> > > > > >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > > >> wrote: > > > > >> > > > > >> From: edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > > > > > >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > > > > >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > 40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > > > > 40yahoogroups.com> > > > > > > > >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> Hi Everyone, > > > > >> > > > > >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings > in > > > the > > > > >> house are not good. > > > > >> > > > > >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning > with > > > the > > > > >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield > carbon > > > > >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to > do > > > > >> regarding windows. > > > > >> > > > > >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is > adhered > > > to > > > > >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, > and > > > we > > > > >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > > > > >> > > > > >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with > > > other > > > > >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be > > > helpful as > > > > >> well. > > > > >> > > > > >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, > > > > >> > > > > >> Edo > > > > >> > > > > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
In reply to this post by betty A
Mine too, Ida. I want remediations which can be easily removed if they do not work well. (That is one of the reasons I am having so much difficulty embracing metal-clad wiring.)
Diane --- On Tue, 4/13/10, ada iye <[hidden email]> wrote: From: ada iye <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. To: [hidden email] Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 11:49 AM Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding paints caninfact intensify the signals in your room and make things worse. Theidea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals trapped and bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able to be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some one else will verify this, but for me this hasalways been my sticking point with regards to using the paints. A --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@momoglass. com> wrote: From: edomor2 <edo@momoglass. com> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. To: eSens@yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 Hi Everyone, We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings in the house are not good. We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning with the bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield carbon graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to do regarding windows. Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is adhered to the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, and we don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with other window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be helpful as well. Thanks for taking the time to read this, Edo [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
In reply to this post by BiBrun
Hi Bill,
The cell tower is at quite an incline from the house, but you're right -- if the ceilings blew off the second floor we wouldn't be able to physically see it, quite. We'll try walls for first and take readings as you've suggested. The antenna lies south and slightly east of the house. So we are planning to only paint the eastern and southern wall to begin with. I erred with the notation of the readings -- supposed to be mW/m^2. So again, what we're getting is: * between 1.5 m/W2 to 4 mW/m^2 outside the house. * the bottom floor ranges from 0.5 mW/m^2 to 12 mW/m^2 * the top floor ranges from 2 mW/m^2 to 21 mW/m^2. * In the adjacent studio where we work, a larger building and in front of the bedroom in relation to the antenna, we're getting on avg 8-14 mW/m^2 downstairs and 20-60 mW/m^2 upstairs. We had just been considering adding a light fixture to the bedroom upstairsbefore painting, but you maybe that's not such a good idea. We have accessto the ceiling sheet rock from the attic, so would it be a good idea to goup there and cover the light fixtures with some other kind of shielding material? Best, Edo --- In [hidden email], Bill Bruno <wbruno@...> wrote: > > The strongest energy is coming by line of sight. So if your > house were glass, would you see the tower through the wall > or the ceiling? Probably the wall. Focus on parts of the wall > where you'd be able to see the tower, or almost able to see it. > If you have a directional detector, look at where you get the strongest > readings when pointed to the wall or to the tower. > (m/W^2 is not right, it should be mW/cm^2 or mW/m^2, and > they differ by 10000, or W/m^2 ). > > The ceiling will help but only if you do a good job on the wall > and their are no penetrations (light fixtures, electrical outlets, > etc.). Save the ceiling for last and see if the directional meter > says it's coming mostly from the very top of the wall. Beware > that wiring in the ceiling that comes down to a fixture will > be a significant source of leakage through the ceiling if you > do the ceiling. > > Bill > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:33 AM, edomor2 <edo@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Bill, > > > > No cats here, so that's not a concern. Have thought of hemming a metal bar > > against the bottom of the Veilshield so that it lies flat against the window > > frame. > > > > We're getting readings outside between 1.5 m/W2 to 4 m/W2; inside the > > house, the bottom floor ranges from 0.5 m/W2 to 12 m/W2, and the top floor > > ranges from 2 m/W2 to 21 m/W2. There seem to be hot spots. > > > > In the adjacent studio where we work, a larger building and in front ofthe > > bedroom in relation to the antenna, we're getting on avg 8-14 mW2 downstairs > > and 20-60 m/W2 upstairs. > > > > The antenna is above us in elevation, 650 meters away. Since the readings > > are so much higher upstairs, I'm guessing Yshield on the ceilings will help > > a lot. > > > > I don't think our outer wall is conductive at all (We're painting on the > > inside). We're shielding just the bedroom first and will see how that goes > > with YShield/Veilshield. We're taking readings with a 3-axis RF meter. > > > > > > Best, > > > > Edo > > > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > > <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > I have used veil shield. It works well. If you have cats, they may > > > destroy it. Also my wife didn't like the look unless it was stretched > > > very flat. This can be achieved by taping to the glass, but that > > > makes it hard to connect with the frame. You probably will get > > > your 99 percent but if there is a tower close by you should aim > > > for much better. If the outer wall is at all conductive then oversided > > > metal screens outside will be a big help. Also, having a good detector > > will > > > help a lot. > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 1:54 PM, edomor2 <edo@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Bill, > > > > > > > > Thanks for your thoughts on the shielding. Not sure if I understand > > this > > > > about the AM radio. what needs to be solved exactly and what would be > > > > buzzing after we paint? > > > > > > > > We're considering the VeilShield product sold at lessemf for the > > windows, > > > > maybe with some small magnets adhered to the window moulding to keep > > the > > > > mesh basically in place. We're not looking for 99.999 -- 99 is good > > enough. > > > > This mesh is a polyester material coated with a nickel-blackened copper > > > > finish. Virtually see through and unnoticeable from a distance. > > > > > > > > Best, > > > > > > > > Edo > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > > 40yahoogroups.com>, Bill Bruno > > > > > > <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Another thing about shielding... first check with an AM radio to see > > if > > > > > there are any buzzes near where you are going to shield. Solve those > > > > first > > > > > or you will have the whole area buzzing. > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Bill Bruno <wbruno@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > I think the paint has good properties, but it is true that > > > > > > removing it is a problem. Make sure you fill any cracks > > > > > > so you get a single conductive surface over the whole area. > > > > > > Leave some exposed someplace where you can install a > > > > > > dedicated ground rod; meanwhile ground it to your pipes > > > > > > or electric... and make sure you can experiment with grounded > > > > > > vs. non-grounded (don't paint close to anything that might > > > > > > create a shock hazard). > > > > > > > > > > > > The most cost efficient thing for windows is aluminum insect > > > > > > screen. You either need to bond it electrically with the paint, > > > > > > or have an overlap of several inches. You will see the levels > > > > > > improve maybe 99% reduction without overlap, but if the > > > > > > levels are bad you want to shoot for much better, like 99.99%. > > > > > > > > > > > > Don't paint another color over the y-shield until your readings > > > > > > are low enough... you may need to add a second coat. > > > > > > > > > > > > I know someone who used very fine stainless steel mesh on his > > windows. > > > > The > > > > > > films really are not as good, and bonding to the > > > > > > paint with film may not work (you have to bond it all the way > > > > > > around). There's a place in Berkeley, TWPinc.com that sells all > > kinds > > > > of > > > > > > mesh, including copper and bronze... > > > > > > > > > > > > B > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 9:49 AM, ada iye <betty_starbuckle@>wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that using shielding > > > > paints > > > > > >> can infact intensify the signals in your room and make things > > worse. > > > > The > > > > > >> idea being that It can create a faraday cage with Emf signals > > trapped > > > > and > > > > > >> bouncing around inside. The fact that the paint is then not able > > to > > > > > >> be removed is also a negating factor in my opinion.. Maybe some > > one > > > > > >> else will verify this, but for me this has always been my sticking > > > > > >> point with regards to using the paints. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> A > > > > > >> > > > > > >> --- On Wed, 14/4/10, edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > > > >> wrote: > > > > > >> > > > > > >> From: edomor2 <edo@ <edo%40momoglass.com>> > > > > > > > > > >> Subject: [eSens] Help! Shielding house with Yshield paint, etc. > > > > > >> To: [hidden email] <eSens%40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > > 40yahoogroups.com> <eSens% > > > > > > 40yahoogroups.com> > > > > > > > > > >> Date: Wednesday, 14 April, 2010, 1:29 > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Hi Everyone, > > > > > >> > > > > > >> We're 600 meters from a strong cell phone tower and the readings > > in > > > > the > > > > > >> house are not good. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> We're about to take the first steps towards shielding, beginning > > with > > > > the > > > > > >> bedroom. After some research we've decided on using the Yshield > > carbon > > > > > >> graphite paint for the walls, but are still undecided on what to > > do > > > > > >> regarding windows. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Has anyone had any experience with Scotchtint, a film that is > > adhered > > > > to > > > > > >> the glass (sold by lessemf.com) ? All of this stuff is so pricey, > > and > > > > we > > > > > >> don't want to throw our money away with things that won't work. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Also, any info/experience you have with the Yshield paint or with > > > > other > > > > > >> window alternatives (like Pilkington glass or fabrics) would be > > > > helpful as > > > > > >> well. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Thanks for taking the time to read this, > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Edo > > > > > >> > > > > > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
«
Return to ES
|
1 view|%1 views
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |