Electric

We have to fix electric problems.  I measured 7Gauss on a water pipe
by our washer & dryer.

The main breaker is grounded on the plumbing It goes
down to 1G on all metal in the basement.

The water pipes are touching the duct-work. What can a plumber do about that?.

The gas line has 1 G. Husband looked at it, & the grounded water pipe is next to the gas line,  not on it.

Gas co. said over phone, someone made a mistake & grounded something on it. To remove it. No it's next to it.


We should an electrician install a separate grounding rod?

 Do you have them remove the main electric & cable TV, on the pipes & put them on the rod?

What should I tell the plumber, The past owner had a di-electric coupling put on the water heater? Did the past owner do that to avoid the grounding charge from the main?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Is the outlet for washer/dryer grounded?
Gas or electric appliances?
Were wsher/dryer running when tested with meter?
Where is the water pipe, next to washer/dryer? What else is there, in that area? Is it on same wall as main power box?
Is where your water comes in, at the main power box location?
Ductwork in some cases can be moved/ or configuration changed to allow space between pipe & ductwork.
Grounding rods: the way I understand it is: typical houses require 2, s/times 3.
The rods are buried 10-12 ft down, within 3 feet of house, then thick cable is wrapped around tip of grounding rod, strung up (secured) under lip of siding, pulled thru a hole that enters the house where the main panel box is, then attached/grounded to ele, water and gas at this area, inside the house, right by the panel box. This is called : the Service Entrance. The service entrance is "where" the grounding is supposed to be. This is CODE now, but wasn't before 2011. It was common for electrical to be grounded to water pipes, willy nilly...which they now know causes net current to piggyback on water lines.
Wonder if you could insulate the water line next to the gas line? To break the current.
Remember, anyone connected to the city's water system will have current piggybacking onto their water lines inside the house-where the city's water lines are made of metal. Newer areas may not have iron/metal water lines. Diaelectric unions are not always sufficient to stop/interrupt current. S/times replacing a 3 ft section of water line at the SERVICE ENTRANCE with the plastic piping- this is on the inside of house, where YOUR water line meets the city's water line.
 Lizzie



To: [hidden email]
From: [hidden email]
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 08:14:57 -0800
Subject: [eSens] Electric


 





We have to fix electric problems.  I measured 7Gauss on a water pipe
by our washer & dryer.

The main breaker is grounded on the plumbing It goes
down to 1G on all metal in the basement.

The water pipes are touching the duct-work. What can a plumber do about that?.

The gas line has 1 G. Husband looked at it, & the grounded water pipe is next to the gas line,  not on it.

Gas co. said over phone, someone made a mistake & grounded something on it. To remove it. No it's next to it.

We should an electrician install a separate grounding rod?

 Do you have them remove the main electric & cable TV, on the pipes & put them on the rod?

What should I tell the plumber, The past owner had a di-electric coupling put on the water heater? Did the past owner do that to avoid the grounding charge from the main?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




     

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The washer &  gas dryer were off. There is a light switch above & a few feet from the area measured that was on. To my knowledge they are grounded.

The main breaker is 4 -6 feet away . It's is grounded on the water pipes 4- 6 ft away.  This is where the higher readings are. Thee water pipe runs a long the ceiling above above & near the washer & dryer.

There was a higher reading of 15 G at a light switch,  that's across the basement we have to have unhooked.

What is an average cost of installing a grounding rod?

Do you know what a plumber might charge to reconfigure  6 section of pipes? Might be a lot.

Kathy

 <[hidden email]> wrote:
 [eSens] Electric
















 



 


   
     
     
     

Is the outlet for washer/dryer grounded?

Gas or electric appliances?

Were wsher/dryer running when tested with meter?

Where is the water pipe, next to washer/dryer? What else is there, in that area? Is it on same wall as main power box?

Is where your water comes in, at the main power box location?

Ductwork in some cases can be moved/ or configuration changed to allow space between pipe & ductwork.

Grounding rods: the way I understand it is: typical houses require 2, s/times 3.

The rods are buried 10-12 ft down, within 3 feet of house, then thick cable is wrapped around tip of grounding rod, strung up (secured) under lip of siding, pulled thru a hole that enters the house where the main panel box is, then attached/grounded to ele, water and gas at this area, inside the house, right by the panel box. This is called : the Service Entrance. The service entrance is "where" the grounding is supposed to be. This is CODE now, but wasn't before 2011. It was common for electrical to be grounded to water pipes, willy nilly...which they now know causes net current to piggyback on water lines.

Wonder if you could insulate the water line next to the gas line? To break the current.

Remember, anyone connected to the city's water system will have current piggybacking onto their water lines inside the house-where the city's water lines are made of metal. Newer areas may not have iron/metal water lines. Diaelectric unions are not always sufficient to stop/interrupt current. S/times replacing a 3 ft section of water line at the SERVICE ENTRANCE with the plastic piping- this is on the inside of house, where YOUR water line meets the city's water line.

 Lizzie






 










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Elizabeth,

Were you able to get below 1G on your pipes w electrical fixes?

Kathy





 










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I"d check the light itself, the wiring inside the light- to make sure it was wired properly, if it wasn't, it could be energized, and sending current everywhere in the room. This is a process of elimination.
I'd check the wiring in the light switch as well. Have an electrician check these, is what I mean, more accurately.
Main breaker box, have electrician re-check every neutral ground screw to make sure they all TIGHT. Any loose ones can cause problems with un wanted fields.
The water pipe runs along the ceiling, how near the light? Check the light!
If you have that high of a reading, on a LIGHT SWITCH...that light switch cannot be wired right. And that light could be on same circuit as over head light, and other light switch. Right there, with that 15G reading..this sounds like that switch is ENERGIZED. This is BAD!
THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED, or completely disconnected, at the very least. Not using it...doesn't mean diddles. It is connected to OTHER wiring.
It costs me 260.00 to have the plumber replace two 3 ft sections of water pipe/lines....there are 2 at my service entrances. MOst houses would only have one.
It ran me 450 or so, for electrician to install 2 grounding rods. I dont' know if that's average or not. It did reduce the fields on the walls where my main panel is...hugely.
 
Lizzie
 

 



To: [hidden email]
From: [hidden email]
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 09:57:15 -0800
Subject: RE: [eSens] Electric


 




The washer &  gas dryer were off. There is a light switch above & a few feet from the area measured that was on. To my knowledge they are grounded.

The main breaker is 4 -6 feet away . It's is grounded on the water pipes 4- 6 ft away.  This is where the higher readings are. Thee water pipe runs a long the ceiling above above & near the washer & dryer.

There was a higher reading of 15 G at a light switch,  that's across the basement we have to have unhooked.

What is an average cost of installing a grounding rod?

Do you know what a plumber might charge to reconfigure  6 section of pipes? Might be a lot.

Kathy

 <[hidden email]> wrote:
 [eSens] Electric

 

Is the outlet for washer/dryer grounded?

Gas or electric appliances?

Were wsher/dryer running when tested with meter?

Where is the water pipe, next to washer/dryer? What else is there, in that area? Is it on same wall as main power box?

Is where your water comes in, at the main power box location?

Ductwork in some cases can be moved/ or configuration changed to allow space between pipe & ductwork.

Grounding rods: the way I understand it is: typical houses require 2, s/times 3.

The rods are buried 10-12 ft down, within 3 feet of house, then thick cable is wrapped around tip of grounding rod, strung up (secured) under lip of siding, pulled thru a hole that enters the house where the main panel box is, then attached/grounded to ele, water and gas at this area, inside the house, right by the panel box. This is called : the Service Entrance. The service entrance is "where" the grounding is supposed to be. This is CODE now, but wasn't before 2011. It was common for electrical to be grounded to water pipes, willy nilly...which they now know causes net current to piggyback on water lines.

Wonder if you could insulate the water line next to the gas line? To break the current.

Remember, anyone connected to the city's water system will have current piggybacking onto their water lines inside the house-where the city's water lines are made of metal. Newer areas may not have iron/metal water lines. Diaelectric unions are not always sufficient to stop/interrupt current. S/times replacing a 3 ft section of water line at the SERVICE ENTRANCE with the plastic piping- this is on the inside of house, where YOUR water line meets the city's water line.

Lizzie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




     

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]