Driving for EHS individuals can be very unsafe

So I tested my car while driving. I was shocked to see the crazy magnetic fields that come up from beneath the pedals of the car, almost maxed my meter. All this time I thought it was cell towers and power lines and phones. Dude its the car! I can't drive for even 20 minutes without feeling sick. Took forever to figure out it was the car. Just wanted to let you all know, because these levels of magnetic fields are not safe. I have trouble concentrating, my depth perception is off, and I have confusion, feelings of dread, and I find this odd... I have a hard time recalling song lyrics while listening to music on the road. If you are sensitive to magnetic fields and your car has high readings driving can be very unsafe! So be careful.

Yes, I have found some of the newer rental cars much harder to tolerate than my own (older) car.  Although I have assumed this is due to all the new electronics in modern cars, which would be different than magnetic fields at the pedal.

Marc

Yeah, it takes a lot to figure out all intruding sources, there are so many.
i'm so long EHS and still learning.
Some are hard to feel and don't give immediate or obvious symptoms;
other are obvious but mask yet another source. And sometimes we are mislead.
It's the invisibility that makes it a formidable challenge.

Yeah I thought it was the Bluetooth until I found out how to turn Bluetooth off. My readings in the car were very low. Then I checked the magnetic fields which were maxed. Sometimes it takes so long to find the real source of some of these side effects! I had to stop using a lot of other items that give off high magnetic fields and it has helped a lot. Its just a shame with driving because thats very hard to mitigate magnetic fields!

I know right! Seriously a challenge. Now because of all the exposure to this stuff it leads to other problems, like becoming MCS :/ As if there weren't enough problems with electronics now the chemicals and other things... sigh

It really depends on the car. I have measured some cars to be much better than others.

I also have a post on degaussing car tires. Remember that if the tire is spinning, it will generate a magnetic field because of the metal in the tire.  Maybe that's what you are measuring.

But it could also be the wires, which can be shielded with mu-metal foil. When you press the brake pedal, usually the field should go up for a second, as the current goes to the brake light.

I find my car is not too bad, but others are worse.

With old cars without computers the chances are better.
I had an opel combo diesel from 1995 that was no burden at all.
In the mid nineties cars became computerized, the expensive models a bit earlier than the common ones.
When the fuel injection is also precisely computer-controlled, things get even worse.
Any car with a computer has given me an headache so far.
I plan try to shield these culprits with mu-metal, it may help although the em-pollution probably spreads through the wiring.
This will block both high and low frequencies.
The idea to put mu-metal near the wheel is not bad.
A tire without steel re-enforcements might be cheaper if available, a thick plate of steel is heavy but should also do the job.
Jacking up a car and letting wheels spin with a running engine could enable to demagnetize tires at a safe distance.
Gasoline engines are in general worse because of the sparkplugs, and the alternator must work harder also.
Not using lights when not needed during the day will reduce magnetic fields too of course.
When the readings are much higher near the wheels when driving, the tires are likely a problem.
The tire nearest to where you sit is of course the most important.
By the way, there will be quite some frequencies that ordinary meters do not pick up, especially in the range between 100 kHz and 100 MHz but even within the band they are designed for.
Also everyone has his one characteristic vunerabilities ( and that changes over time ).
Our own sensitivity is likelely by far the best meter, if you're lucky always available and at no cost.
Geopathic influences are not to be under-estimated, both in a "positive"and a "negative" manner.
Anyway, back to the topic, in modern cars there is a lot of unnecessary stuff, like airconditioning, electrical windows, seat-heating, etc., not to speak of all the devices put in the latest and especially the luxury models.
All currents should be DC, including within the alternator, but they aren't, cars are not designed to minimize emf.
In fact, these days it almost seems to be the opposite.
The idea of at least less the air-pollution from modern cars is rather questionable, as its ultra-fine particles are not filtered by ones nose or lungs and even penetrate the blood-brain-barrier.
In addition the interior of new cars simply stink too much, this can not be healthy either.

Here's a list of measurements of fairly recent cars taken with a TriFied meter:

http://www.ahappyhabitat.com/cars.html

If you want to build a camper-van, you might want to look at military surplus Humvees. (http://www.govplanet.com/Humvees) I believe that they have mechanically injected diesels. (I think some military pickups do as well.) They can be had fairly cheaply (http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/search.ips?c=3468&mode=8&sm=1&mf=1), but you would want to do some research.

You need to add license plate mounts and some lights to make them street legal. You may also be able to license them as classic cars in some US states.

Thanks for your comments everyone. Unfortunately I am not looking to do any sort of manual tuning/building /mounting or anything to change anything on a vehicle and I think that is the case for the majority of people. There have to be better vehicles out there that are newer probably I would think. Does anyone know?

Is a 2012 Chevy Impala not new enough for you? From the link:

"Buick

2011 LaCross -
Driver: 2.0 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 12.0 milli gauss.

1998 Buick Le Sabre -
Driver: 0.2 milli gauss
passenger: 0.4 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 0.2 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 0.2 milli gauss

Chevrolet

2012 Impala -
Driver: 0.2 (0.4 pulse) milli gauss
passenger: 0.3 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 0.2 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 0.2 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 3.0 (5.0 pulse) milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 12.0 milli gauss

2011 Malibu -
Driver: 3.5 milli gauss
passenger: 1.5 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 1.0 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 3.0 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 10.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 3.0 milli gauss

2010 Impala -
Driver: 0.2 milli gauss
passenger: 1.0 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 0.2 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 0.2 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 2.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 35.0 milli gauss

2009 Silverado (5.3 L)-
Driver: 1.2 milli gauss
passenger: 1.5 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: x
Passenger Rear: x
Driver Front Floor: 4.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 3.5 milli gauss

2007 Silverado 1500 Classic (5.3 L) -
Driver: 0.2 milli gauss
passenger: 0.1 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 0.1 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 0.1 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 1.5 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 1.5 milli gauss

Cadillac

2012 CTS 3.6L v6 -
Driver: 2.0 milli gauss.
Passenger: 15.0 milli gauss
Driver Rear: 2.0 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 2.0 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 4.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 50.0 milli gauss

2012 XTS -
Driver: 4.0 milli gauss.
Passenger: 4.0 milli gauss
Driver Rear: 0.5 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 1.0 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 35.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 30.0 milli gauss

1994 Seville -
Driver: 1.5 milli gauss
passenger: 0.8 milli gauss.
Driver Rear: 2.0 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 0.8 milli gauss

2006 CTS v6 -
Driver: 0.2 milli gauss.

2005 SRX v6 -
Driver: 0.3 milli gauss.
Passenger: 1.0 milli gauss
Driver Rear: 0.3 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 1.5 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 2.0 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 2.0 milli gauss

2005 SRX v8 -
Driver: 0.3 milli gauss.
Passenger: 1.0 milli gauss
Driver Rear: 0.8 milli gauss
Passenger Rear: 2.5 milli gauss
Driver Front Floor: 2.5 milli gauss
Passenger Front Floor: 2.5 milli gauss"

A lot of other cars on his list are 10+ milli gauss in the driver's seat. I haven't read anything to suggest that there are new cars that are better than the ones above, so your alternatives would be '80s Mercedes diesels or some Detriot Diesel trucks.

Hi there, I didn't notice the first link, thanks very helpful information!

My vehicle when tested at the drivers side pedals maxes out my meter which goes up to 20 mG so I know its AWFUL. I'm sensitive with anything at about 1 mG or over, so its pretty awesome that there are some vehicles below that.

I've been looking for a vehicle with some of the newer safety features such as vision assistance etc and low miles, so thats why it would be a newer vehicles.

It would be great if this list was more extensive. I guess I will probably just have to test out all the vehicles that I am interested in with my meters.

Thanks!

Newer vehicles will have the "new car" smell, especially brand new. I found for my car most of the smell was coming from the spare tire. I air it out regularly, but it still continues to give off fumes. The car was built 3 years ago, and still smells.
Make sure when you test you turn on things you would normally use, maybe some are worse than others.
Like, headlights to full position, and rear defroster. Rear defrosters make a lot of "noise".. but usually they don't stay on too long.

Oh yeah I hate the new car smell, can't tolerate the chemicals...which is why I am looker for a new-er car lol, few years old. Wouldn't think to test all the those things... will do!

SuperLaura wrote

Oh yeah I hate the new car smell, can't tolerate the chemicals...which is why I am looker for a new-er car lol, few years old. Wouldn't think to test all the those things... will do!

I just realized the AC/Heating makes a measurable magnetic field as well in my car. Don't forget to test that, as it would be most used. The blower fan is usually just behind the glovebox, so the passenger would receive the magnetic field.

If you can't stand chemicals, you may need to wrap the spare tire with some special material that can block the smell/chemicals. I think it's one of the worst chemical emitter in a car. There is a special ziplock bag maker called "Aloksak" and they made odor proof ziplocks "Aloksak OPSAK", which I think would mean they can block chemicals from escaping too, but I don't think they make anything big enough for a tire. It's the only thing I can think of that may be able to block chemicals. You could keep glue bottles/household cleaners and other things you need in the house in those ziplocks.

I didn't even think about the spare tire or the heat/AC!! Good to know, thanks!!! :)

SuperLaura wrote

I didn't even think about the spare tire or the heat/AC!! Good to know, thanks!!! :)

Well, heat and AC both use the same blower which is usually behind the glovebox.
AC turns on one more front fan under hood as well usually, so it adds to the electric load and magnetic fields.
Heat uses engine heat, so nothing extra is added.

I find being a passenger is usually much better than driver. A lot of wires run down the driver side but not as many on the passenger side.. So it's good to have someone drive you =)
The wires are hidden along the edge of the carpet/under the carpet on the sides of the car. When you press the brake pedal for example you should see magnetic field rise there, but only on driver side.

Let us know what you find, but I wouldn't be surprised if you find the passenger side is better in almost every car.

The driver side also has a lot of fuses and lots of wiring just above the pedals, while the passenger has much less.

Karl's post doesn't seem to agree with this though.. I don't know why it would be though, but also that post does not take into account peak mG fields,.. like when you press the brake pedal. That is a big one, because it keeps pulsing and it's a strong field.  Actually I think that would be a very important one to test..The Peak mG on driver side just under the driver seat to the left, when pressing the brake pedal. Some cars are much worse than others!..

One important note from the link ( http://www.ahappyhabitat.com/cars.html )  :
"As we have seen with the Low Emission Computer ambient measurements can be negligible yet the computer can still cause devastating symptoms. Even if one doesn't initially feel any symptoms, in time one can become sensitized by the various low intensity frequencies of the EMF. It is therefore imperative to drive a vehicle on a long trip before committing to buy it."
One thing is that meters are never reliable, produce fake signals and miss others, do not properly add up all emf within their frequency ranges or do not do this at all ( only show the highest peak ), and so on.
Another issue is that vunerabilities are highly personal ( these may change also during time, that's another problem ).

I do not know what model of a meter is being used here, but according to my own measurements of cars with GigaHertz meters the given numbers in mG are all very high.
Anything above 0,1 mG in a car on the seat i consider to be pretty bad.

Instead of mu-metal i experimented with a cobalt-based foil , YSHIELD MCL61 , which was more easily ordered and seemed a better deal, although still 100 euro for a 0.6 m2 ( 6 square feet ? ).
However it appears to shield usually 10 to 20 % of the magnetic AC fields instead of the promised 97 %.
In one case ( covering a linear charger ) it shielded 55 %, but even that is a far cry from the specification ( a factor 15 ).

Better results were achieved by moving the drivers-seat a bit to the front.
This is not what one would expect, but the steel from the cabin should be kept at some distance.

Diesel cars of over 20 years old are likely the best bet, not expensive, and relatively environmentally friendly, contrary to the storyline new car-producers are trying to sell us.

Hmm yeah I was wondering about that. I find it helps if I don't have my feet on the floor. I will sit Indian style in the passenger seat or even better I will sit in the backseat if I can.

I understand older cars may be better, but I have to believe there have to be a few newer cars out there somewhere with the benefit of the newer safety features. Just looking at that list of vehicles... one 2012 has a reading of .2 mG while another says 50mG... so doesn't mean they aren't nicer cars out there, I'm looking for a 2014 or so with low miles. So far the only options I have seen are inexpensive vehicles that aren't very nice. If money wasn't an obstacle is there anything newer and nice out there thats safer for EHS individuals? I am not so worried about the electronic components of the vehicle because I drive very little,  it may only be an issue with extended trips...but I know for certain I am very sensitive to magnetic fields in particular, and can feel the effects after only a few minutes of driving so that is probably the biggest thing I need to avoid based on the readings I am getting. My meters are pretty reliable as I have quality meters and multiple meters to compare readings. I don't think a trifled meter is the most reliable... I have an ME 3830B from Germany as well as the EMFields Pocket PF Meter.

SuperLaura wrote

Hmm yeah I was wondering about that. I find it helps if I don't have my feet on the floor. I will sit Indian style in the passenger seat or even better I will sit in the backseat if I can.

Most back seats of small cars are right above the wheel, which is a high magnetic field when the wheel is spinning. I find the front passenger the best, move the seat all the way back, you'll be right in the middle between tires.

Try out a 2014-2016 Corolla.. The newer style,.. I can measure one with ED88 if you want, my 3830 is on loan for now, so I can't use that. I think it's pretty good on the passenger side, I've sat there and I feel good..but you'd have to try it.